Heinz Beck Revisited: Knightsbridge, Sunday 9th October, 2011

London Restaurant Festival came around in October and this year the event really had to take a back seat. Coupled with the wife's 30th, numerous meals out beforehand as well as a rent increase, the fact that we were about to take a holiday hung heavy on our spending. As a newly-engaged couple, it was high time I got to meet the parents. Two weeks in Taiwan had been booked, so our spending was highly curtailed.

However, a cheap lunch offer at Aspley's (or, as we prefer to call it, 'Heinz Beck') was too good a chance to miss. The wife, a friend and I attended with high hopes for a repeat of the enjoyable lunch we sampled some time ago.

The bread was as thrilling as it had been the first time (really!), with a repeat of the very thin paper stuff I loved so much last time. I remembered to ask about it this visit, and was told it is called striga. At least that's how they pronounced it. Trying to verify such a name on the web has proved impossible, but I'll stick with this for now. It remained a treat, as did all the bits and pieces with oil and salt.

The pre-starter was some truffle arancino with asparagus cream (left). Arancino are fried rice balls which doesn't really prompt visions of toppy Italian dining, but when they are served in such an elegant and refined manner, they're just what you want to kick off a fancy lunch.

Starters were utterly stupendous. Our friend opted for the mackerel salad which was a sight for sore eyes (right). A veritable garden of textural and visual variations, the delightful cold fish was interwoven with the lettuce, beetroot and dressing in the most elegant way. A treat of a starter and no mistake.

The wife chose the pasta of the day, which was more asparagus, but this time as a chopped topping for mushroom-filled tortellini (left). These were as soft and succulent as pasta gets. Cooked to perfection, perfectly proportioned and a delicately balanced flavour combination: what more could one want from a simple plate of pasta?

I went for the pumpkin soup, which took the title of prize starter (right). Or it would've done were there such an award going. A strange, deep dish was brought to the table, containing all manner of paraphernalia. A quenelle of strange-looking gel sat in the middle, with a wafer of what looked like melted cheese. Pearl barley dotted around the plate with carrot, bacon and bread also making appearances. It looked like a right old muddle until a small jug of the thickest, creamiest pumpkin soup was poured in. This was absolutely the best of the best. Thick, warm, rich soup nestling in the crevasses of the accompaniments which I could've eaten twice and then thrice if you'd offered me it.

Simplicity is so important when it comes to Italian food; even in these most upmarket of circumstances. What I loved about all three starters was their true nature. Nothing was overly complex (apart from maybe the contents of the soup dish) but it all worked in the most satisfying way. Nothing could be more Italian than that, whether you're paying £5 or £15 for a starter.

The wife's main course maintained the simple theme, coming in the form of scallops on saffron risotto (left). The idea alone sounded glorious and it looked a pretty picture too. Naturally, this was right on the money as well. Tender, soft risotto with exquisitely pan-fried scallops was a brilliant and simple - yet opulent - combination. Lovely to be sure.

My friend and I went for the choice of 'Segovia pig' (right). I was intrigued by this because I really had no clue what to expect outside of some pork. In the event it was much, much more than that. The main pig part of the dish was centred on some thin fried bread wrapped around a gorgeous chunk of fillet. Segovia pig is apparently a roast suckling swine cooked to the point of the meat falling apart in the best way. That was certainly the case here. Covered in a sweet blueberry jus, the whole thing was tied in fantastically with the slivers of bacon and vegetables adding the finishing touch. It was reminiscent of the quail we'd tried here the first time of asking, but far better.

Having gorged ourselves silly on bread and then two outstanding courses of deliciousness, we decided dessert wasn't necessary (or wise, given our upcoming financial exploits). However, we were still presented with a lovely plate of pre-dessert goodies (left). Similar to last time (though not quite as nice), it was a lovely touch and a good reminder that they really do take care of you at Heinz Beck. It isn't snooty or pretentious, just great food and service.

I think that's all that really needs to be said for such a restaurant. It's somewhere that I was intrigued by on the first visit and enthralled by on the second. If I was a little undecided whether I was coming back for a proper meal after the first time, I'm sure I'll do so at some point now. This is some of the most pleasant food you'll find in London.

Aspleys, A Heinz Beck Restaurant