It is a great success rate. The franchises have been developed on the idea of doing things very simply and very well. It is, in essence, exactly what modern places should be doing if they want to remain current and fashionable. The cost to set the places up is remarkably low and the philosophy admirable. It makes for an extremely impressive burgeoning empire.
In December last year, the wife and I decided a little after-Christmas party food was in order. As with one year prior, a bit of Italian cicheti (tapas) was on the cards. We first tried Polpetto, given that I had heard a lot about it: there was a power cut in Old Compton Street. On to Polpo, remembering how much we had enjoyed it first time: there was an hour or so wait for a table. Finally to Bocca Di Lupo, hoping to re-enact last year's fun: there was no availability at all.
And so we found ourselves in Covent Garden. The final hope we had was in Da Polpo, the most recent Italian addition to Norman's brand. It's also the biggest, which I didn't know at the time. Had I know this, we might have gone straight there instead of trekking around the west end in vain for the best part of an hour beforehand. There was no wait for a table and we were in the mood for cicheti, that's for sure.
We started with some arancini, the fried and breadcrumbed rice balls which can often be doughy and unappetising. These were a bit of a treat (left). Small but perfectly moist yet solid within, the mushroom and cheese inside was a great set-up for the meal to come. At £2.50 they may have been a bit of a stretch, but quality almost always trumps price. In Covent Garden it certainly does.
Our next plate was moscardini, which are little octopuses. They were served drizzled in olive oil and some mild herbs and, despite looking rather scrappy, actually tasted rather good (right). Not chewy, slightly meaty, semi-soft, they were another welcome plate on the table. That, I think, concluded what one might term as 'starters' and 'mains' came along. My vagueness is because the plates are so haphazardly brought to the table that it can be tricky knowing where you are with your meal. I don't believe this is a bad thing, though. It adds a touch of rustic frivolity and homeliness to the occasion.
Next up was a dish which sounded as rough and brutish as anything you'd be able to find in an Italian bacaro: roast pumpkin, speck (rich, savoury ham) and ricotta (left). It was a disgrace. The pumpkin was stringy, undercooked and sour. The ham was strewn messily on top with the dry cheese matted in amongst it. I managed a few measly mouthfuls before packing it in. A waste of time, effort and - ridiculously - £7.50.
Fortunately, the next course re-railed the meal in a comforting way. Spaghettini and meatballs was a lovely reminder of what great Italian food can be like in a restaurant, a bacaro or at home (right). Al dente pasta, perfectly solid & soft meatballs along with a slightly spicy tomato sauce: there's nothing more you need.
Our final dish was a pizzette bianca, or a small white pizza. Light mozzarella, mild onion and some dough to add a bit of weight to the meal made for a good accompaniment (left). It was another winning and reasonable dish at £5.Overall, the meal was definitely worth it, leaving a small impression on the wallet but a bigger one on the palate. Da Polpo is probably the safest bet if you're in the mood for some cicheti in central London. It's got the shortest waiting time of any of Norman's restaurants and the menu is as reasonable and fun as the rest of them. It's certainly the most 'now' way of eating if you're in the area, so my suggestion would be to swing by if you're passing through.
Da Polpo
No comments:
Post a Comment