A week or so ago, I went to a restaurant in Teddington that I'd not been to before. The site which it occupies used to be inhabited by Liberty's, a restaurant chain that delivered precisely what you wanted (providing you wanted a solid yet thoroughly unspectacular meal), and which was a Teddington standard for years. In this spot now stands Retro, a modern eatery which this delightful suburb has been lacking for some time.
I sampled six dishes, all of which were above average. The scallops with cabbage and bacon to start were excellent, as was the apricot soufflé for dessert. Around this was some enjoyable and understated lemon sole, some slightly less understated lamb with dauphinoise and carrot pureé (and spinach!), a decent duck terrine and a standard chocolate fondant. I say "standard" because I love this dessert so very much that by merely having a passable one is qualification enough to say that it's good.
Hats off to Retro. They have instilled a new feeling into cuisine in Teddington. It certainly shows up Noel, the French place a few doors down, it has soared past the once effervescent Sorrento, and set itself up as the finest restaurant in town. Competitors, your challenge is set.
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