A Little Korean - Assa: Soho, Monday 14th March, 2010

I've been to both branches of Assa before, but this was a visit where I think I understood the appeal of simple Korean food more than my previous experiences. A very traditional, get-you-in, get-you-out London Asian restaurant, there is much to be said for spending £10 or £15 here on some uncomplicated dinner.

I was also more informed about what it was we actually ate. Last time I was part of a group which sort of ordered and left me to get on with it. This time, in a party of three, I was able to have more input into what was on the table.

When eating Korean food, there is an iconic dish one must try: kim-chi. It's important to try this because it is synonymous with Korean eating right down to the roots. Rough, fresh and assembled at the table, it's a stunning synthesis of several quaint and traditional culinary forms. The only problem is, it's horrible. Sour, ridiculously spicy and generally unpleasant. Which is a shame, since hot rice, vegetables, sauces and a raw egg combined at the table in front of your face should be amazing.

Of course, not everyone agrees with me. The other half and the friend who was at the table with us devoured some kim-chi soup - like the should-be-good rice but actually predictably vile - which had a huge lump of tofu floating in it. I tried some, choked and didn't try any more. However if you like thin, spicy, sour soup (with tofu) this will be right up your street (left).

Fortunately, the rest of what we ordered pressed my buttons. Pork belly was peppery and snappy but unnecessarily dusted with sesame seeds. The taste was good but the slices so thin you were quickly transported from flavoursome meat to unpleasant fat and back again fairly quickly. The same seafood pancake as before was enjoyed as thoroughly as before (right). It was crispy, thick and soft in the middle. It's much like an omelette but one you feel happy to fill with other foodstuffs.

We completed our table-full with some noodles. Glass noodles were ordered with vegetables and they were practically fought over. Glass noodles, unlike the standard kind, are based on sweet potato and as such they have a far more distinctive, chewy texture. They work remarkably well when combined with old-fashioned greasy sauce and veg to make a delicious and filling comfort food. Beef udon noodles were similar: the kind of thing you just didn't want to stop eating (left).

The right kind of dishes can make a lot of difference when it comes to Korean food. When you've got the food on the money, sharing it and wolfing down mouthfuls of assorted dishes becomes a treat and one that is easy to see the appeal of. It's not glamorous cuisine but it can be a lot of fun. Best eaten with friends or having a few dishes to share, Assa is certainly a good, cheap meal out.