- Set up shop in somewhere unfancy and rough around the edges
- Do not accept reservations
- Keep your menu so simple as to list ingredients only, not dishes
- Charge prices which attract diners but keep riff-raff away
- Change your menu on a daily basis
- Emphasise classic combinations but with popular modern ingredients
I think that covers it... Most new places in the east or west end these days stick to the above six points and it was last September that the wife, a friend and I tried one a place at the forefront of London's new restaurant movement: Ducksoup.
We went there on a whim, with me having convinced the wife that we didn't need to go to Chinatown for something quick and convenient whilst we had one of the hippest places in town a few minutes away. As such, there was a bit riding on this one because if I ever get my way, woe betide me if it's the wrong way.
Since you can't book and it was a Friday evening, we had to be content with a row of three stools at the downstairs bar. Downstairs itself is a brick-walled, big-mirrored bar with menus hand-written (they change daily for dinner and lunch) and wine scrawled all over the mirrors. It's actually genuinely relaxed and welcoming but not pretentious. The lighting was dim enough that we could ignore everyone but our behind the bar server and each other, so we assessed our options and proceeded to eat in the best way there is: ordering a big selection for three which we could all share.
After some rough-cut crusty bread and sweet, creamy butter to start, we decided ham was the way to go, firstly with some speck and mozzarella (left). Speck in its Italian incarnation (the one that most London places use) means prosciutto ham; thin, delicate and salty. In this case it was draped over some seasoned fresh mozzarella cheese which was a beautifully light, vibrant and creamy counter to the rich meat. It was an extraordinarily simple starter but it was executed so exceptionally that all three of us devoured it with little conversation or grace. Mind you, for £8, cheese and ham had better be great.
Next up was lardo on toast (right). This really was pork simplicity. Lardo is back fat which has been preserved and cured to retain flavour and silky texture whilst being so downright bad for you that it must be good. In this case it did taste delicious but it was undermined a bit by the overly-toasted bread which was so dry as to literally cut through the fat on top.
As well as the obvious charm of being penned almost personally for diners' enjoyment, the menu is organised delightfully as follows: Bar, Kitchen £4, Kitchen £14, Sides, Pudding, Cheese. To be honest, that's what I want all my menus to look like. There is not a great deal of rhyme or reason outside of small dishes, medium dishes, more expensive dishes and desserts and that's what leads to great, unfussy eating. And when I can get quail, harissa and burnt lemon on any menu for £4, I'm happy (left). Unfortunately, the quail was overwhelmed by the spicy sauce for me. The yoghurt was a nice touch but it was still enough to make the lips throb which I wasn't so keen on.
There was one dish on the main (£14) menu which appealed to us above any other: duck. Breast served with figs and sherry was about right for fourteen quid and when the dish came it was so impressive we quickly ordered another one (right). Perfectly cooked, maintaining beautiful robust texture but a perfect strong, fleshy taste, this was a duck breast cooked exactly as it should have been. Crispy skin was another necessarily excellent touch and the accompanying baked fig was sweet and juicy to sit perfectly with the tart sherry jus. I pretty much had one of these to myself and left the girls to finish one between two.
We went with two side dishes for the duck. Thinking back, I'm quite impressed and appalled in equal measure about how much was ordered and finished without much thought. I suppose it is testament to the quality of the food that we just kept eating. It didn't stop with some baked potato which was seemingly baked in and served with butter (left). These were lovely because there was some pleasant variation with the textures and tastes, mainly because they had been cooked as a gratin. Some cuttlefish with rosemary also somehow made its way to the table which was certainly one for the wife (right). This was a small pot of crispy squid which was finished off in no time. For £4 it was just about right, if seemingly unnecessary.
I had to give at least one pudding a go, and at £6, I was quite intrigued by the black plum tart (left). This was less a tart than a pie in truth, but one which was sweet, filling and totally uncomplicated. It was delicious, made whole with the soured cream on the side, enabling the fruit to come to the fore whilst the pastry was flaky and flavoursome enough to be supportive without dominating. The wife wasn't so keen but our friend and I polished it off without any problems.
Since she had not really had dessert, the wife insisted we go to Madd for some further indulgence which was every bit as kooky and enjoyable as it had been on our first visit but the evening belonged to Ducksoup. Embodying everything one should enjoy about the modern restaurant without being clichéd, the meal was a delight. I would say I'll be back there but I already have been and that's a review for another time.
I must recommend this place but the chances are if you know anything about food in London you will have been there already or at least heard about it. And since most of the press is good, let me just say that the hype in this case is justified.
Since you can't book and it was a Friday evening, we had to be content with a row of three stools at the downstairs bar. Downstairs itself is a brick-walled, big-mirrored bar with menus hand-written (they change daily for dinner and lunch) and wine scrawled all over the mirrors. It's actually genuinely relaxed and welcoming but not pretentious. The lighting was dim enough that we could ignore everyone but our behind the bar server and each other, so we assessed our options and proceeded to eat in the best way there is: ordering a big selection for three which we could all share.
Next up was lardo on toast (right). This really was pork simplicity. Lardo is back fat which has been preserved and cured to retain flavour and silky texture whilst being so downright bad for you that it must be good. In this case it did taste delicious but it was undermined a bit by the overly-toasted bread which was so dry as to literally cut through the fat on top.
As well as the obvious charm of being penned almost personally for diners' enjoyment, the menu is organised delightfully as follows: Bar, Kitchen £4, Kitchen £14, Sides, Pudding, Cheese. To be honest, that's what I want all my menus to look like. There is not a great deal of rhyme or reason outside of small dishes, medium dishes, more expensive dishes and desserts and that's what leads to great, unfussy eating. And when I can get quail, harissa and burnt lemon on any menu for £4, I'm happy (left). Unfortunately, the quail was overwhelmed by the spicy sauce for me. The yoghurt was a nice touch but it was still enough to make the lips throb which I wasn't so keen on.
We went with two side dishes for the duck. Thinking back, I'm quite impressed and appalled in equal measure about how much was ordered and finished without much thought. I suppose it is testament to the quality of the food that we just kept eating. It didn't stop with some baked potato which was seemingly baked in and served with butter (left). These were lovely because there was some pleasant variation with the textures and tastes, mainly because they had been cooked as a gratin. Some cuttlefish with rosemary also somehow made its way to the table which was certainly one for the wife (right). This was a small pot of crispy squid which was finished off in no time. For £4 it was just about right, if seemingly unnecessary.
Since she had not really had dessert, the wife insisted we go to Madd for some further indulgence which was every bit as kooky and enjoyable as it had been on our first visit but the evening belonged to Ducksoup. Embodying everything one should enjoy about the modern restaurant without being clichéd, the meal was a delight. I would say I'll be back there but I already have been and that's a review for another time.
I must recommend this place but the chances are if you know anything about food in London you will have been there already or at least heard about it. And since most of the press is good, let me just say that the hype in this case is justified.
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