Monday 24 January 2011

Michelin Guide 2011 – London Restaurants


Amidst a howl of derision from some (Jay Rayner in particular) and a whoop of jubilation from others, the latest Michelin Guide has been published. The full UK list is here, but as usual it is London's achievements I intend to focus on.

The biggest news is that Hélène Darroze has obtained a second star for her restaurant at The Connaught. Good for her, I say. I ate there a while back and had a wonderful time. Of course, prices will duly increase and I'm sure it will now be taken off Toptable, but good-o all the same. On a personal point, this now makes Marcus Wareing's restaurant the only Michelin two-star venue in London which I have yet to eat in. (Reviews are following for a few of these...)

On the topic of Marcus Wareing, a few people were rather surprised that he didn't get his much-coveted third star last year. That he has missed out this beggars belief (apparently). What may gall the Ramsay protege even further is that Ramsay's re-launched and much-maligned Pétrus has been awarded one star also. This is a real surprise, and some welcome news for Ramsay Holdings after what has been a tough year for the loud-mouthed Scot.

The two three-star institutions in London remain as before - though many in more sophisticated quarters than I questioned why Alain Ducasse ever got one for The Dorchester in the first place - in both Ducasse's hotel restaurant and Ramsay's flagship on Royal Hospital Road.

Two restaurants - Nahm and Roussillon - lost the one star they had, but plenty of restaurants were awarded a first star. Seven Park Place, Gauthier Soho, Galvin La Chappelle, Petersham Nurseries Café, Viajante and Kitchen W8 were all recognised when previously they hadn't been. I have been to some of these and others are very much on my 'to do' list.

Overall, a good Michelin year for London and a very good one for the UK, with more stars being awarded here than ever before. We may not yet be up there with Paris or Tokyo, but the times are slowly changing.

The full list of Michelin-starred restaurants in London for 2011:

Three Stars:
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

Two Stars:
Pied à Terre
The Ledbury
Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught
Le Gavroche
Hibiscus
The Square
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

One Star:
Hakkasan
Club Gascon
Rhodes Twenty Four
Harwood Arms
River Café
La Trompette
St John
Rasoi
Tom Aikens
Kitchen W8
The Glasshouse
Bingham Restaurant
Petersham Nurseries Café
Viajante
Galvin La Chapelle
Chez Bruce
Amaya
Apsleys, A Heinz Beck Restaurant
Pétrus
Zafferano
Benares
Galvin at Windows
Greenhouse
Kai
Maze
Murano
Nobu
Nobu Berkeley St
Semplice
Sketch
Tamarind
Umu
Wild Honey
L'Autre Pied
Locanda Locatelli
Rhodes W1
Texture
Seven Park Place
Arbutus
Gauthier Soho
Yauatcha
Quilon

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