This was a re-visit, and although the meal was not as great as the first time I ate at this place, I wasn't doing the blog then, so it deserves a write-up. Plus it was still a fun meal, so that's something we all need to hear about.
One O One has been in Knightsbridge for a good ten years now, and head chef Pascal Proyart has been honing a fairly impressive reputation for quality seafood within the rather monstrous Sheraton Park Tower Hotel. Situated between the busy section of road that runs from Hyde Park Corner to Knightsbridge, but before the business end of Harvey Nichols and Harrods, the place is a kind of haven from the tourist-packed hustle and bustle of the area.
The restaurant itself is not well-designed. The whole thing has an air of conference room about it, but it somehow doesn't feel like a hotel restaurant at the same time. There is a huge area that you pass on your way in to the main restaurant which I have never seen used, which means it's either the most over-sized tasteless private dining area around, or they just never get that busy.
On this particular Saturday, the place was humming with lunch-goers. Probably because of the 50% off deal they were offering, but still: busy. I couldn't help but feel the restaurant probably wasn't equipped to deal with such volumes, at least when it comes to staff. Again, not using their conference-space made the whole thing feel a bit like you were in a busy office, but there happened to be food there.
Right, I think I'm done ranting about the place itself, so I might as well get on to the food. Fortunately, as soon as our starters were placed before us, the whirlwind of flustered waiters and chatty diners faded away in the light of a divine trio of oysters. As great as oysters are, I've never been much of a fan. I can eat one and that's enough for me. One O One seems as if it's been listening to me and served us three styles on one plate (left). The yuzu sorbet with vodka was great, the classic shallot vinegar was better, but the tempura-battered oyster took the first prize. Just eating a battered oyster is wonderful in itself; it is like having foie gras and chips.
Our starters proper weren't too shabby either. Some scallops with pork belly and a delightful splurge of quail's egg along with potato was over-sauced but opulent in the extreme. A lobster salad was not quite a salad per se, but it was a vibrant mixture of apple dressings, chilled langoustine-y richness and a bit of stellar presentation to boot (right).
The first time I'd been here, the other half and I had eaten almost totally meat, the unsophisticated boors that we are. This time, we just had to try some fish, which came in the shape of Norwegian halibut, served with truffled cassoulet and tiger prawn dumplings. Now, if you're going to combine such richly ambitious flavours and textures, it had better go without a hitch. Sadly, this was a case of small hitches all over the shop masking any serious potential in the dish. The truffles were an afterthought to the cassoulet, which threatened to overwhelm everything, leaving the fish nearly redundant and the dumpling a pretty sideshow. Not great, unfortunately.
So, back to meat - not what this place is famous for, I remind you - and things were a little better. Well, set to the tune of spring lamb in May, I'll enjoy whatever you put in front of me (left). Good things: the lamb was cooked correctly and beautifully, the parmesan was a sharp spear of salty contrast, and it looked great. Bad things: they had tried to go for colour over taste - there was no need to over-complicate things with the addition of garlic gnocchi (yes, we can see: they're green!) and olives, and the asparagus was slightly over-cooked. Better than the halibut, but not massively.
Desserts were a little muted, given the level of our indulgence up to that point. Some brownies were pretty decent, served with salt caramel and coffee ice cream. Sadly again, the dish had been overdone with ideas and ingredients, because the base part was good but subdued. Fortunately, the day was stolen by a sensational panna cotta served with granny smith apple and blackberry (right). A mixture of hyper-sweet creamy main event with the chilled sour snaps of the sorbet on the side... Take notes, Proyart - this is how you combine ingredients to make them sing.
One O One will always have a special place in my heart, since the first time I came here it was a meal I can look back on with sentimental eyes and a satisfied stomach. This second time was still nice, but some of the dishes have been overcomplicated to the point of pretentious confusion. If they can take things back to basics, they might yet fill up that conference room. There are soaring highs to be had at One O One, but let's hope they know how to find them.
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