L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon – Covent Garden, Friday 5th February, 2010

There are certain chefs in whose restaurants you will sit there quietly, eat what you are given and not talk out of turn. Joël is one of these chefs. Having gained more Michelin stars than any other, he commands a huge amount of respect in the culinary industry.Myself and the other half tried the early evening set menu offer L’Atelier tends to provide for pre-theatre and cheaper diners one Friday, and we did sit there quietly and enjoy it. The good thing about the set up here is the open kitchen in the centre of the room, so you can sit on bar stools eating Michelin-starred cuisine overlooking a bustling French kitchen. It’s wonderful.
The food itself has a muted, understated greatness. Whilst I’d love to be eating the a la carte menu here, the set is a very limited, pre-prepared deal (naturally; you know what you’re getting with a set menu.) We ate and enjoyed our starters without much fuss. I liked the thick velouté of onion with crouton, and the boiled egg (yes, they love to rub the simplicity in) we also tried was perfectly cooked and imaginatively garnished (left).
Main courses were a little more impressive. Some whiting cod with mash sounds simple and uninspired, but was rich as anything, and a wonderful mix of smooth textures to boot. Seasoned with a green piece of chicory-like dressing, the thing was hearty but not too filling. Some bourguignon was sternly rich and full-bodied; not entirely dissimilar to that I’d sampled a few days before at Le Vacherin.
Dessert of the day was a chocolate mousse combination of vanilla and chocolate creams with some darker chocolate dressings. It was unspectacular but comforting, served in strange fishbowl-type receptacles (right).
So I was left feeling how I thought I would at the end of the meal: sort of satisfied, kind of in awe, a little envious of those enjoying the a la carte and somewhat sleepy. The food was good, and it was always going to be. One day I might try the a la carte there, but that might have to wait until they’re paying me to write this.
L'Atelier