Quaglino’s: Mayfair, Monday 23rd November, 2009

If you’ve spent any time drifting in and out of London restaurants, you will certainly have heard of Quaglino’s. Well, actually, you might not have if you weren’t doing this in the Eighties.

2009 is Quaglino’s 80^th year, and it looks the part of a Mayfair institution every step of the way. Stunning long ceilings and beautiful decorations (it was the first day of the Christmas frills) make you feel as if you’re rightly living in a better, prettier world. It’s also managed to distance itself from the D&D group it now finds itself owned by; you certainly still feel like you’re in an independent and stylish restaurant.

I must once again sing the praises of Toptable here, because they had kindly reminded me some weeks ago I had a lot of points on my account with them through my excessive commitment to eating out. And these were expiring. So, without further ado, I got on the case and took advantage of a free meal with Quaglino’s.

The inevitable downside is the freebie menu being a very limited set affair. The plus point was the menu being pretty tolerable. We ate our way through a decent enough French onion soup (but really, you have to eat this sort of thing in France) and some ham hock terrine for a starter. Considering terrine is the rough country cousin of pate, I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of this one.

Main courses were better still. An impressive salmon fishcake with rich and pleasant dill beurre blanc finished very nicely indeed. And the dill didn’t ruin it either, which is a good thing. A chicken pie with porcini mushrooms was exactly as it sounds – filling and satisfying.

The tarte tatin and pavlova for dessert were also as they should be: sweet richness and fresh vibrancy respectively. So, all things considered, I was fairly chuffed with this particular free meal.

Do give Quaglino’s a try. Especially recommended during the upcoming festive season, where the appearance alone is worth a drink at the bar. If you decide you want a bit more of an experience though, stay for dinner.

Quaglino's