Going back to old favourites, well-trodden paths and popular haunts can be a dangerous game, and I fear things are getting that way with Amalfi. Bang in the middle of one of London's most vibrant and colourful areas, Old Compton Street, Amalfi is a classic. It has a stunning capacity, with over 100 covers possible in the place, and the downstairs dining experience is one that resonates well with Soho's rustic Italian heritage.
The menu is one of familiar regularity. I don't recall trying anything there I haven't enjoyed. The pasta is passable, the pizzas genuine, the meat is well-cooked and the desserts are all great.
On the other hand... I've noticed that their mushrooms with polenta (a one-time banker of a starter) has been slowly in decline. I once dined there with Mike and Tom, and Mike's rack of lamb came to the table cold. Never mind that it was delicious when heated, that is just unacceptable. Dessert on this occasion was iffy: the chocolate sauce on our crepes was powdery and insubstantial.
Then again... Their Gamberi Piccante - warm tomato spiced chilli sauce with prawns - is always on the money. Carbonara there is as it should be (not easy to do, by any means), and the Polpette (meaballs on spaghetti) are far better than some others I've had. You can eat the whole dessert card: there is zero filler here. Crepes, tiramisu, apple pie, cheesecake, panna cotta. All are competitive when on song.
I guess the point I'm making is: be careful how many times you re-visit your standard choice places. Try to keep things fresh and go to as many new places as you can. All it takes is one or two flaws, and suddenly your favourite little place becomes boring, stale and utterly fallible.
Still, if you're in the area...
Amalfi
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