tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67530487901198746822024-03-14T02:24:30.896+00:00Out Of The Frying PanAn alternative take on London eatingJonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.comBlogger216125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-89953729087679074902015-08-30T16:00:00.000+01:002015-08-30T16:00:02.686+01:00The Bird in Hand - West Kensington, Thursday 11th July, 2013Neigbourhood restaurants are a difficult thing to judge. Everyone thinks whatever's just around the corner from their place is the best you'll find and local bias can understandably be strong. Where I live, there's not a whole lot in the immediate area but then London is such a wonderfully accessible place that you're never far from somewhere interesting to eat.<br />
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Some summers ago (that's right, we're officially over two years behind now people), a work conference in London prompted three colleagues and I to invite the wife to join us for a bite to eat after a long day of discussion, round-the-table opinions and productive working groups. We'd been given a recommendation for a place that was within walking distance of their hotel and of my home which piqued my interest. The Bird In Hand used to be a pub which is now something resembling a pub, only focusing more on food. Instead of an emphasis on boozing, the main selling points are now modern food and good wine.<br />
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The menu read quite interestingly, essentially an Italian restaurant with some more British influences throughout. There was a whole section for pizza which is always fairly encouraging: if you're going to make proper pizza, it should be a feature of the menu, not an afterthought. The variation on show was just about right, with enough choice to make the menu appealing but not so much to suggest ambition outweighing ability.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ocho3MhlNBI/VdukG8dl-2I/AAAAAAAACFg/0OpJvBE0WGE/s1600/2013-07-11-21-44-12_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ocho3MhlNBI/VdukG8dl-2I/AAAAAAAACFg/0OpJvBE0WGE/s200/2013-07-11-21-44-12_photo.jpg" width="200" /></a>Starters were two dishes the wife and I couldn't resist: mozzarella for me and seafood for her. Burrata (the soft, middle and best part of the mozzarella) is something I am always interested in, especially if it has been properly prepared and served. In this case, the dish was accompanied with slow-roasted tomatoes and pureéd basil (left). The cheese was just about right, though not as smooth as I've had elsewhere. I liked the idea of the tomatoes which had an enhanced flavour through the cooking with the skin removed to make for easier eating. A good start for sure.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G6DtohVKNQY/VdukGqRMlMI/AAAAAAAACFY/CrbUtXUIRP0/s1600/2013-07-11-21-43-40_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G6DtohVKNQY/VdukGqRMlMI/AAAAAAAACFY/CrbUtXUIRP0/s200/2013-07-11-21-43-40_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>The wife was instantly drawn to the braised octopus, which sounded like a classic Italian café standard, but when described on the menu, it seemed like more of an upmarket proposition (right). This was served with cherry tomatoes, gnocchi, chilli and a lemon gel. In a way, this dish was a microcosm of the idea behind the restaurant: a classic with a modern twist. Phrases like this often make me feel uneasy since it can be a cliché suggesting something is about to be pretentiously ruined. In this case, the dish and the idea was a triumph. The wife got through it with the sort of gusto and relish one would hope to see anywhere in Italy when presented with a plate of octopus and gnocchi. Equally comforting and delicious, this was impressive.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7YU9xWo9oo/VdukLiP8xNI/AAAAAAAACFw/V2AiYkb1pBw/s1600/2013-07-11-22-06-49_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7YU9xWo9oo/VdukLiP8xNI/AAAAAAAACFw/V2AiYkb1pBw/s200/2013-07-11-22-06-49_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>The theme of seafood continued into main courses, with the wife choosing the risotto of brown shrimp, courgette and a deep-friend courgette flower filled with prawn mousse (left). The key to this bowl of food was freshness. The wife enjoyed it very much and it was certainly a pleasant enough dish for me. However, I enjoy my risottos very creamy and rich, where this was more a case of supporting the seafood and the very enjoyable flower centrepiece. It was good, just not a spectacular dish for me.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKjv5FLCF8/VdukNiMTb0I/AAAAAAAACGA/yWZ2vGlp-yI/s1600/2013-07-11-22-07-30_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKjv5FLCF8/VdukNiMTb0I/AAAAAAAACGA/yWZ2vGlp-yI/s200/2013-07-11-22-07-30_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>I decided to put the pizza menu to the test (of course, the fact that it's great sharing food also helps when eating with friends) and the 'Salsiccia', with Tuscan sausage, porcini mushrooms, truffle paste and truffle oil was something I was interested in (and the wife positively insistent that we try it). It was a pretty glorious thing when brought to the table (right). Any pizza touting these kinds of ingredients ought to be suitably grand and this did not disappoint. It was thin, crisp, luxurious and rich which meant we were all very pleased.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DXuI3kDuJis/VdukMmc91ZI/AAAAAAAACF4/7zF-67L0N5w/s1600/2013-07-11-22-55-40_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DXuI3kDuJis/VdukMmc91ZI/AAAAAAAACF4/7zF-67L0N5w/s200/2013-07-11-22-55-40_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>Despite the meal to this point having been a success, we decided for some greed-forsaken reason to order three desserts. There were plenty of people at the table so I think the rationale was that we would be sharing them out. In the event, everyone tried bits and pieces but we did leave some unfinished. One of the main reasons for this was the salt caramel panna cotta, which in the event was so outrageously salty and abrasive that we couldn't get through it (left). Sometimes, caramel has the unfortunate effect of being a little too harsh on the palate and this was one such occasion.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8qGT0HXSO0Q/VdukPu3gXJI/AAAAAAAACGI/to5xBMb1jl8/s1600/2013-07-11-22-55-53_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8qGT0HXSO0Q/VdukPu3gXJI/AAAAAAAACGI/to5xBMb1jl8/s200/2013-07-11-22-55-53_photo.jpg" width="150" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Xom2eq4evk/VdukQG66R8I/AAAAAAAACGM/hcSzyae7gS0/s1600/2013-07-11-22-56-17_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Xom2eq4evk/VdukQG66R8I/AAAAAAAACGM/hcSzyae7gS0/s200/2013-07-11-22-56-17_photo.jpg" width="200" /></a>Far more enjoyable was the strawberry and creme fraiche tart with elderflower sorbet (right). This was an excellent, summery, light pastry dessert. The cream in the tart was set well and the sorbet added a fragrant and refreshing note. The pick of the desserts for sure. We also went for the vanilla macaroon with a white chocolate mousse and raspberries (left). This was somewhere in the middle, with the sheer size of it possibly the most impressive thing about this dessert. It was sweet and enjoyable, but perhaps not at the standard we were hoping for.<br />
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This was a pleasant and unexpected meal. Which, when dining with colleagues after a long day of work talk, is about as good as one might reasonably expect. Tucked away somewhere near Brook Green is a rather enjoyable and interesting restaurant. Well I say restaurant, but I'm not entirely sure how to define it. The Bird In Hand looks like a pub. It sounds like a pub. But it doesn't taste like one.<br />
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<a href="http://thebirdinhandlondon.com/">The Bird In Hand</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-21832638244316279782015-08-27T09:00:00.000+01:002015-08-27T09:00:09.384+01:00The Big 30th: 28th June - 4th July, 2013Some time ago, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/birthday-weekend-to-remember-15th-18th.html">the wife turned 30</a> and I organised a series of meals out along with food-themed treats across a weekend. Coupled with an engagement, I felt I had successfully co-ordinated an enjoyable celebration. I'm a really bad gift-giver and celebration organiser at the best of times usually. I don't know what it is about other people's birthdays that brings the curmudgeon in me out. Maybe it's having to buy things for people who aren't me.<br />
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On the flipside, I'm not much of a birthday kind of guy when it's my own either. I'm usually happy with a decent meal and some sort of immature larking about which reminds me of being a teenager. I hadn't planned much for my 30th but the wife had been busy and as such, around a week before the big day, a run of surprises began which lasted almost a week. I hadn't been prepared for it but it was some adventure.<br />
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Friday 28th June: Aspley's, A Heinz Beck Restaurant, Knightsbridge<br />
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If she wanted to start things off with a bang, the wife could hardly have picked a better place to get things started. Last year she'd brought me here for a <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/aspleys-heinz-beck-restaurant.html">Valentine's Day surprise</a> and we'd had a great time. It's somewhere we've enjoyed for as long as we've been coming here, and I've rarely heard a bad thing about it from others also.<br />
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This time though, we were going for a la carte. She insisted I basically order whatever I want. I briefly toyed with the idea of going for the £350 caviar to start, if only to see her reaction but thought better of it. Upmarket Italian food on a four course a la carte was such a wonderful way to begin the weekend. As ever at Heinz Beck, it always starts with the bread. It's one of the few places where I don't feel compelled to ask for butter, such is the crisp quality of the <i>striga</i> and the breadsticks (left).<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3HjPiBv1KQ/VAzLvJn2tTI/AAAAAAAAB9g/krPdt4LoW_w/s1600/DSC02933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3HjPiBv1KQ/VAzLvJn2tTI/AAAAAAAAB9g/krPdt4LoW_w/s1600/DSC02933.JPG" width="200" /></a>Our pre-starter was a <i>mille-feuille</i> of ricotta, pea & carrot foam (right). It was extraordinarily light and a great introduction to the meal. The flavours were both palette-cleansing and distinctive, which told me we were in for a treat.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AiXTLof6A1A/VAzLwazsBBI/AAAAAAAAB9s/p09bB381eeI/s1600/DSC02938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AiXTLof6A1A/VAzLwazsBBI/AAAAAAAAB9s/p09bB381eeI/s1600/DSC02938.JPG" width="200" /></a>We both started with seafood. Some scallops were delicately prepared (they were hardly cooked) and served with fresh asparagus, tomato and dressed very simply with herbs (left). Normally I like scallops to be fried with some caramelisation and character, but there was something in the soft meatiness of these wonderful shellfish which I really enjoyed. The freshness of the accompaniments were a well-judged, summery delight which made for a surprising and enjoyable starter.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVXoJcc0YeY/VAzLwKP1-4I/AAAAAAAAB9o/y_S_lL9j5Oo/s1600/DSC02941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVXoJcc0YeY/VAzLwKP1-4I/AAAAAAAAB9o/y_S_lL9j5Oo/s1600/DSC02941.JPG" width="200" /></a>We also went for lobster since seafood was the theme of the early evening (right). This was the Heinz Beck interpretation of lobster salad, with the lobster meat gently prepared and butter-knife soft. It was high-quality lobster, meaning it retained a lovely fleshy bite but was properly complimented with some imaginative sides. The shoestring potatoes added some saltiness and a pleasant crunch whilst the confit tomatoes were a perfect match for the salad and the balsamic dressing.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjljtMe3JLQ/VUKrWDUY_JI/AAAAAAAAB-g/D9DfGz5qoF0/s1600/DSC02942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjljtMe3JLQ/VUKrWDUY_JI/AAAAAAAAB-g/D9DfGz5qoF0/s1600/DSC02942.JPG" width="200" /></a>Since four courses was the order of the evening, once seafood was done we turned our attention to pasta. The wife was in the mood for more seafood and chose a course of "Artisan Maccheroncini" with smoked aubergine and langoustine (left). The rather confusingly-named pasta is essentially elongated macaroni which I found undercooked in the event. It was too chewy which left the rest of the dish fairly redundant. The sauce was a thick and rich tomato, the aubergine underneath added some smoky colour and the langoustine was as expected but when you don't like the pasta in a pasta dish, it's just not enough. That said, the wife did enjoy it so I can only tell you what I thought...<br />
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My dish on the other hand was the delight I had expected it to be because I'd had it there before: the glorious, sumptuous faggotelli carbonara (right). A slightly bigger portion than the set menu course I'd once had, this was the same rich, smooth, satisfying dish of comfortable flavours and perfect execution wrapped in an upmarket package. It remains one of my favourite pasta dishes.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8mumlMBOqkY/VUKrVTY7PxI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/rWEjV7lzR58/s1600/DSC02948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8mumlMBOqkY/VUKrVTY7PxI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/rWEjV7lzR58/s1600/DSC02948.JPG" width="200" /></a>Next up was meat. I tend to struggle with some Italian meat dishes since I've often found them a touch dry or underwhelming. I admire how rustic and honest an Italian meat dish can be (after all, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/11/autobiographical-piece.html">I once wrote about</a> how much I loved one I ate in a café in Tuscany) but elevating them to a Michelin-starred level is no joke. In our case, the first was a great affirmation of how something simple and Italian can be brought to a higher level: a fillet of beef (left). This was a Casterbridge fillet, perfectly - and surprisingly evenly - cooked medium rare with a great char on the crust. The balsamic reduction added a beautiful sharpness and touch of sweetness to the dish whilst the parmesan crisps added enough flavour to justify their presence as a bit of theatre.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RxVsKPj4nCc/VUKuKFKQmOI/AAAAAAAAB-0/sD2UdLAkXyk/s1600/DSC02949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RxVsKPj4nCc/VUKuKFKQmOI/AAAAAAAAB-0/sD2UdLAkXyk/s1600/DSC02949.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife's main course was a more ambitious idea of venison cooked in yoghurt (right). This sounded slightly strange on paper but the idea was (I assumed) to marinate and soothe the meat with the yoghurt, but it wasn't something I'd seen before, much less tried. The meat was a consistently tender perfection, with the natural gaminess prominent but tempered with the earthier accompaniments of shredded purple potatoes and crispy & braised salsify. The small cereal pearls encasing the venison added a pleasant crunch on the outside of the meat, avoiding that most unfortunate situation where you have an evenly-cooked piece of meat with no bite or variation.<br />
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Desserts turned out to be an adventure in opulence. Things were started with an exquisite-looking pre-dessert for the two of us to share (left). This was a delicate but rich mixture of blueberry sorbet, muesli and white chocolate mousse. The muesli was a coating for the mousse, adding texture and fun to remind us exactly why we still bother with frills such as pre-desserts.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1LeiEkI_6qU/VbgJ6YbCBuI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/4bUj92YaR5Y/s1600/DSC02966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1LeiEkI_6qU/VbgJ6YbCBuI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/4bUj92YaR5Y/s200/DSC02966.JPG" width="200" /></a>We shared a 'chocolate & vanilla sphere' which contained a raspberry centre for our first dessert proper (right). There's something magical about a simple flavour profile in a well-executed combination such as this. A perfectly-formed chocolate exterior shell housing sweet vanilla cream and a raspberry bubble of flavour in the centre was a delight. The tempered chocolate 'leaves' and the edible flowers only added to the spectacle. This was delicious in that it reminded me how essential it is to tap into childhood sweet-toothed delight when forming a dessert.<br />
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Given the occasion, the venue and the way the meal had gone so far, the chocolate soufflé seemed like a natural choice (left). The wife in particular can never resist a soufflé and this one, with more raspberry (sauce and fresh fruit) and vanilla (ice cream on the side) was a super way to see things off. It was rich, exceptionally risen and everything a proper, smart upmarket dessert should be. What we lacked in adventure by ordering two desserts with similar flavour combinations, we made up for in gluttonous enjoyment.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zTeAXeC4LWo/VbgPdvAWZjI/AAAAAAAAB_o/2hUidUdlcfc/s1600/DSC02975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zTeAXeC4LWo/VbgPdvAWZjI/AAAAAAAAB_o/2hUidUdlcfc/s200/DSC02975.JPG" width="200" /></a>One final surprise turned up in the form of yet more pudding, with the wife having arranged a nicely understated birthday surprise for me (right). Some delicious red fruit sorbet with chocolate soil and just about the most elegant "happy birthday" you will ever see on a plate was another triumph. Whilst I never want to make a fuss about my ageing. this is the sort of quiet satisfactory sweet touch I enjoy.<br />
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Heinz Beck at The Lanesborough may not be in operation anymore and it's a crying shame. I'd eaten at this place several times and not once had I been disappointed. Anywhere that can elevate humble Italian food to these heights whilst maintaining excellent poise and service is absolutely a gem by me. I've not been to the new place at the Lanesborough but it has to go some to equal the magnificence of what preceded it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.lanesborough.com/eng/home/">The Lanesborough Hotel</a><br />
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Saturday 29th June - Medlar, Chelsea<br />
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The first visit we had taken to <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/remembering-classic-medlar-chelsea.html">Medlar</a> was a resounding triumph. An affordable luxury riding the crest of a wave that had sent it near the top of everyone's list, it was a refreshingly modern restaurant treating diners with respect and care. Following a rather surprising stop for a massage (I wondered if that was more a gift for her than me), I was very excited to be going back for dinner rather than lunch.<br />
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We were lucky to get a table, especially on a Saturday. I am sure we must have been the lucky beneficiaries of a cancellation - they're so casual they don't take card details for bookings - and at around 9pm we sat down to eat. The menu was a predictably appetising take on what people want to eat at modern London restaurants on hot summer evenings; a combination of light, easy and unpretentious ingredients.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OBTTK0xyrKU/VbgSqIXLJwI/AAAAAAAACAM/TjY4QClkTp4/s1600/DSC02991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OBTTK0xyrKU/VbgSqIXLJwI/AAAAAAAACAM/TjY4QClkTp4/s200/DSC02991.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife started out with some cod cheeks served with borlotti beans, runner beans, courgettes, gremolata and <i>morteau</i> sausage (left). Whilst the fish was well-prepared and generally pleasant, the rest of the dish wasn't particularly cohesive, with what should have been a pleasing medley of supporting vegetables and garnishes falling slightly short. It was an idea that was sadly not quite realised.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Eh7YG6b9W9I/VbgSqnWYMgI/AAAAAAAACAQ/oUvT4v2vhp0/s1600/DSC02990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Eh7YG6b9W9I/VbgSqnWYMgI/AAAAAAAACAQ/oUvT4v2vhp0/s200/DSC02990.JPG" width="200" /></a>Fortunately, I had no such trouble with my starter of tagliatelle, girolles, broad beans, pecorino and summer truffle (right). This was a more complete starter, possibly by virtue of having one or two less ingredients on the plate. The pasta was thin and fine, the truffle rich yet understated. The beans, cheese and a light cream sauce brought the whole thing together, with each mouthful punctuated with the well-balanced flavour of the mushrooms. It was a delightful way to start a summer meal.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-FoRD1aEpk/VbgStCT-tbI/AAAAAAAACAc/QXOT7gPc6Bo/s1600/DSC02995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-FoRD1aEpk/VbgStCT-tbI/AAAAAAAACAc/QXOT7gPc6Bo/s200/DSC02995.JPG" width="200" /></a>Moving on to main courses, we were very much in the mood for meat and some roast poussin was right on the mark (left). It was a classic combination of breast and slightly more caramelised leg meat, with a well-judged, smooth cauliflower purée. This also came with girolles, suggesting Medlar had taken a recent delivery, but when the quality of their accompaniments were such as these, everything worked perfectly.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-85aAtgqVelE/VbgTAGi_wRI/AAAAAAAACAk/_k4Z7oObm3c/s1600/DSC02996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-85aAtgqVelE/VbgTAGi_wRI/AAAAAAAACAk/_k4Z7oObm3c/s200/DSC02996.JPG" width="200" /></a>The other main course we chose had us both practically fighting for it as soon as we read the menu: a rack of lamb (right). Cooked a perfect pink, served with confit shoulder for texture and a little tongue just to show off, sitting atop <i>petit pois a la Française </i>with Jersey royal potatoes, it was exactly the way it should have been. Whilst some of the presentation up to this point had been a little over-sauced and at times confusing (see the cod starter), this was an expertly-plated piece of meat with exactly the dressing it deserved.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KN8-DpazsIg/VbgTBK7VA9I/AAAAAAAACAs/3F4sJWA3evM/s1600/DSC03000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KN8-DpazsIg/VbgTBK7VA9I/AAAAAAAACAs/3F4sJWA3evM/s200/DSC03000.JPG" width="150" /></a>We had hurtled through this meal pretty unceremoniously and with a fair helping of bread to start with also. I wasn't feeling overly in the mood for desserts (as if I'd ever resist) but I did need to go for something a little lighter. As it happened, the lemon curd ice cream with blackcurrant compote and meringues sounded perfect (left). Of course the wife had insisted they add some more birthday paraphernalia but the pudding itself was just what I needed: a simple bowl of comforting, ever-so-British summer dessert.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hG36pb9FMPw/VbgTB4JG9HI/AAAAAAAACA0/2gn1sBRqCUM/s1600/DSC03002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hG36pb9FMPw/VbgTB4JG9HI/AAAAAAAACA0/2gn1sBRqCUM/s200/DSC03002.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife was feeling more adventurous and opted for the <i>crème chiboust</i> with strawberries, strawberry sorbet and honeycomb (right). I might not have been in the mood for a full-on dessert but I was not resisting the urge to help out here. The cream pudding (made from the same basic recipe as cream layers in a <i>mille-feuille</i>) was light, sweet and satisfying, with the strawberries adding their natural refreshing acidity, a pleasant temperature variation within the sorbet and sweetness and crunch from the honeycomb. A nice touch was some candied citrus peel on top to add another layer to what was a surprisingly engaging dessert. It was a super end to proceedings.<br />
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After a helping of predictably excellent, rich chocolate truffles to see us on our way, we were done. It was an unexpected and enjoyable evening, despite a slightly mis-fired starter and a troupe of motorcyclists seemingly determined to ruin everyone's evening by noisily racing up and down the Kings Road for much of the evening.<br />
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There is a relaxed charm to Medlar. It is clearly not perfect but that almost makes it better. It is not intimidating, pretentious or overly geared towards special occasions. And this was a cheap meal - the standard set price of £42 for three courses still applied. When you combine such value with this location, it's nothing to sniff at. Another birthday meal leaving me happy.<br />
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<a href="http://www.medlarrestaurant.co.uk/">Medlar</a><br />
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Sunday 30th June - Burger & Lobster, Soho<br />
<br />
The Sunday was a scorcher. The wife had very thoughtfully organised a day in the park with some friends which left us sunburnt and full of picnic food. I thought this was the day done but she had also planned to take me to a branch of the (then) fairly new comfort food chain Burger & Lobster. I'd heard enough about it from reviews, websites and various associates to know that this was one of the very popular places in town. Whilst I wasn't super hungry, I was excited to be trying somewhere new and interesting.<br />
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The Mayfair branch (which we were closest to) was closed, so we headed to the heaving Soho joint. As with just about every new easy eatery in London these days, booking was impossible but we got ourselves a table fairly quickly. The menu (if it can be called such at Burger & Lobster) was a simplistic delight of having either burger or lobster. A fancy burger, a half lobster or a lobster roll; all served with salad and chips for £21.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RWZUIY72JYc/Vb6HXDDrxhI/AAAAAAAACBI/WFchbGIXjuw/s1600/DSC03031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RWZUIY72JYc/Vb6HXDDrxhI/AAAAAAAACBI/WFchbGIXjuw/s200/DSC03031.JPG" width="200" /></a>We decided in the best interests of sharing and indulging that the burger and the roll were the way to go. The burger was a pleasant, juicy, filling affair (left). Served a pleasing medium-rare with the right amount of dressing and tomato inside, it was an enjoyably fulfilling dish. The salad was about right, a mixture of leaves, onions and balsamic dressing with a little powdery parmesan for extra flavour. The chips were thin and appealing but in the event, way too salty. We all know salt adds flavour and of course the place was just trying to get us to order more drinks but this was certainly overkill.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbDsfRJwozs/Vb6HW0Zol8I/AAAAAAAACBE/KoH1EWU7FXc/s1600/DSC03029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbDsfRJwozs/Vb6HW0Zol8I/AAAAAAAACBE/KoH1EWU7FXc/s200/DSC03029.JPG" width="200" /></a>The lobster roll, however, was a different proposition altogether (right). This was a light, satisfying, refined, comforting sandwich. The lobster was soft, meaty and its flavour shone through the perfectly-weighted mayonnaise and the fresh chives diced on top. Every bite energised you enough to want another one - we were practically fighting over who got to have more of it.<br />
<br />
Burger & Lobster is a fun, easy place to go to eat. Their gimmick is a sound one, the quality is there or thereabouts and it is a nice place to spend some time during an evening, whether you're going to while away a couple of hours or for some sophisticated food on the go. The burger is good, the chips and salad I can take or leave, but the lobster roll is just wonderful.<br />
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<a href="http://www.burgerandlobster.com/home/">Burger & Lobster</a><br />
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Wednesday July 3rd - Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester<br />
<br />
This was the big one. And it wasn't even on the big one or planned as such. The wife had decided that the run of meals and surprises had not quite done the job at this point, so on a whim decided to see if a midweek table was available at one of London's two three Michelin-Starred venues. As luck would have it, they could seat us and, dressed to the nines, we embarked upon one of the least expected top-end meals either of us have eaten.<br />
<br />
As with the Heinz Beck meal which started this lengthy celebration, the wife was in a generous and extravagant mood and suggested we go for four courses and damn the expense (she was paying after all.) Reading the menu was an exercise in high-end French standards; something which tends to fill me with a little dread these days. Truffles, lobster, foie gras, langoustines... all the classics which suggest you're about to enjoy something special. Or tired. Or trite.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TwLQLmfycGQ/Vb6ieUNxrbI/AAAAAAAACCA/7vo-9GbcKwY/s1600/2013-07-03-22-10-07_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TwLQLmfycGQ/Vb6ieUNxrbI/AAAAAAAACCA/7vo-9GbcKwY/s200/2013-07-03-22-10-07_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6X6u4Ea8MeY/Vb6iomdrv4I/AAAAAAAACCY/yrqmNIgJnoc/s1600/DSC03043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6X6u4Ea8MeY/Vb6iomdrv4I/AAAAAAAACCY/yrqmNIgJnoc/s200/DSC03043.JPG" width="200" /></a>One thing that no upmarket, multi-starred French eatery should be short on is pre- and post- courses throughout a meal. Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester is no exception. We started with a pile of <i>gougeres</i>, flavoured with salt, pepper and paprika (left). These were light, delicate, evenly-tasting of the seasoning and the cheese. Moving a little more up the scale, we then had a fairly extravagant sauteed squid dish with white asparagus and a quenelle of citrus cream (right). This was certainly generous for a course which wasn't even on the menu but didn't quite hit the spot for me. The wife really enjoyed it, and the squid was cooked very well to be fair. The seafood sauce was quite pleasant but the whole thing was a little wet and flat for me.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nXabgNDzJcE/Vb6nk6mW-uI/AAAAAAAACC4/XiCDdlqMLAs/s1600/DSC03052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nXabgNDzJcE/Vb6nk6mW-uI/AAAAAAAACC4/XiCDdlqMLAs/s200/DSC03052.JPG" width="200" /></a>Something about the menu annoyed me. They emphasised the main event within each dish by capitalising it on the page. I felt like they were either shouting at me or patronising me. This might sound like a minor complaint, but when the place has three stars and is generally as fancy as anything, you're almost looking for a reason to nit-pick. I chose the "DUCK FOIE GRAS" for my starter, which had been roasted with cherries (left). The menu had it with almonds too but I went without. The foie gras itself was not bad; pleasantly seared for a creamy, rich, sweet finish, yet the cherries overdid the whole thing. They were clearly there to cut through the rich oily paté with some acidity but it was too much. A combination of crushed and soft whole cherries unfortunately riddled the dish with a fruity burst which clouded the whole plate.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F580FN3TiHQ/Vb6icVI7mzI/AAAAAAAACB4/RRUzWxyagIQ/s1600/2013-07-03-22-22-35_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F580FN3TiHQ/Vb6icVI7mzI/AAAAAAAACB4/RRUzWxyagIQ/s200/2013-07-03-22-22-35_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>The wife chose a starter of "LOBSTER" (last time I promise) which had been cooked with lobster sauce, truffled quenelle of chicken and fresh pasta (right). There was a £10 supplement on this but I wasn't surprised, given the venue and the main feature of the dish. The plate was spectacular, the food was incredible. The wife was in raptures from the first mouthful and I have to agree this was something special. Of course, any cynic can argue that when you take a handful of outstanding ingredients you should be able to put together an outstanding dish, but so much of the difficulty in something like this is in balancing such bold flavours. This was expertly done, with firm, boisterous lobster countered by the delicate pasta, the light and fragrant lobster sauce and the punchy chicken quenelles. A hint of truffle for richness and decadence, a touch of mushroom to ground the whole thing and we were suddenly very convinced that high-end French standards were worth the shouty menu.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RKrKdjgzkbY/Vb6nr1urXfI/AAAAAAAACDE/cBA4rjhiYrk/s1600/DSC03056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RKrKdjgzkbY/Vb6nr1urXfI/AAAAAAAACDE/cBA4rjhiYrk/s200/DSC03056.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Given the outrageous success of the wife's starter, I couldn't wait for my fish course. Lobster with fondant potatoes and girolle mushrooms sounded too good to be a problem of any sort. It looked sensational (left). The problem was that it just short of the starter we'd already had. It was still well-cooked and properly conceived, but it missed the mark on execution. The lobster was not as succulent, the ingredients didn't sing together as they might've, the sauce was not all there and I was disappointed that this was merely a good dish as opposed to a stellar one.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-luKAc_h5DXI/Vb6ie3x1CII/AAAAAAAACCI/XlAUtpAEzLE/s1600/2013-07-03-22-40-15_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-luKAc_h5DXI/Vb6ie3x1CII/AAAAAAAACCI/XlAUtpAEzLE/s200/2013-07-03-22-40-15_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>The wife's fish course didn't excite me that much. It was fillet of halibut, served with shellfish and celeriac with a simple <i>mariniere </i>sauce (right). I am not usually a fan of white fish since I find the taste can quite often be bland and a little uninspiring. In this case, all the elements on the dish combined to make a pleasant and surprising plateful. The fish was very tender and the sauce was rich enough to give it a punch of flavour to help elevate the whole thing. I wasn't that impressed with how it looked but as a tasting experience it was a hit.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xx1uIoKnnsY/Vb6nrYYSjXI/AAAAAAAACDA/ELymW57gQ5I/s1600/DSC03059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xx1uIoKnnsY/Vb6nrYYSjXI/AAAAAAAACDA/ELymW57gQ5I/s200/DSC03059.JPG" width="200" /></a>Meat courses were next and I jumped at what I assumed was going to be the star of the evening. A veal loin with peas <i>a la française </i>was a tantalising thought. Veal when cooked well can be a delight and few sides appeal to me the way French peas do. Rich, creamy sauce with bacon and fresh peas is a thing of beauty. The dish didn't turn out quite as I had expected though (left). The peas were a strange deconstruction of the humble dish I enjoy so much, with onion, green shoots and leaves and a hunk of bacon on top. The problem with messing with a classic like this is when it goes wrong, it really crashes. And this went wrong in my book. The meat was okay, but was not on the same level as parts of the meal had been so far. This was the first thing we'd eaten where I had been fairly disappointed.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-ObnFHN7Fc/Vb6nVcJkOdI/AAAAAAAACCo/Ofwolr62RJ0/s1600/2013-07-03-22-54-11_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-ObnFHN7Fc/Vb6nVcJkOdI/AAAAAAAACCo/Ofwolr62RJ0/s200/2013-07-03-22-54-11_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>The wife, on the other hand, had hit the jackpot for the third dish running. I shouldn't have been surprised since she went for a beef fillet Rossini (right). This was every bit the rich, tender, succulent dish it should have been, with a delicious medium-rare fillet steak the star. The sauce was rich and throaty, the crunchy lettuce on the side a perfect foil for the strong beef. The foie gras was perfectly measured with the rest of the plate, sitting atop a bread crouton. Dishes like this don't need much meddling with, and this had been judged to near-perfection. Again, I was left ruing my decision not to go for something I'd usually be inclined to try. Certainly worth the £10 supplement.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iAU2MD0RPBQ/Vb6n3Eb2C2I/AAAAAAAACDQ/UtUfzy5QVD0/s1600/DSC03064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iAU2MD0RPBQ/Vb6n3Eb2C2I/AAAAAAAACDQ/UtUfzy5QVD0/s200/DSC03064.JPG" width="200" /></a>Before dessert, there were some more mid-service surprises. We were presented with some chocolate ganache truffles and macarons (left). The chocolates were smooth and deliciously bittersweet. The macarons were an exciting mixture of orange, raspberry, chocolate and cherry. All perfectly made, light, crunchy, flavoursome and moreish. These were great pre-desserts aside from the fact that we wanted to keep eating them and pass on actual dessert.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H8bORFfzy7Y/Vb6iiB2oJ3I/AAAAAAAACCQ/m-Ahvzykvwo/s1600/2013-07-03-23-33-42_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H8bORFfzy7Y/Vb6iiB2oJ3I/AAAAAAAACCQ/m-Ahvzykvwo/s200/2013-07-03-23-33-42_deco.jpg" width="150" /></a>Of course, proper dessert was never in doubt and the wife went for the summer berries with mascarpone (right). I get the sense this was the restaurant phoning it in slightly. There wasn't a huge amount of complexity or outstanding technique in this. That said, the balance of acidic, sweet fruit, meringue crunch and soothing, mild cheese in the cream was up to scratch. There's nothing really wrong with combining classics like these at any level. Despite the slightly haphazard appearance, it was well enjoyed.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6uQTYOgu6no/Vb6n6OX2dnI/AAAAAAAACDY/4_M7w81cD0g/s1600/DSC03070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6uQTYOgu6no/Vb6n6OX2dnI/AAAAAAAACDY/4_M7w81cD0g/s200/DSC03070.JPG" width="200" /></a>I opted for the sane choice to finish: a soufflé (left). Flavoured with apricot and served with rosemary ice cream and apricot jam, I was fairly convinced this was going to leave me nothing but satisfied. It was a very well-made soufflé, at a perfect temperature and served elegantly. The flavour itself was excellent and I would have enjoyed it more had it not been for the cold dagger of rosemary sharpness cutting through everything. Sometimes less is more and I wish they had kept things simple by using a more neutral flavour for the side to what was otherwise a fine dessert.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Voiu0zLuSRs/Vb6nVAnblEI/AAAAAAAACCk/an1JadJTHXQ/s1600/2013-07-03-23-45-22_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Voiu0zLuSRs/Vb6nVAnblEI/AAAAAAAACCk/an1JadJTHXQ/s200/2013-07-03-23-45-22_photo.jpg" width="150" /></a>We indulged in a couple of post-desserts which were delicious but entirely unnecessary at this point. Just as I thought there could be no more in store, the wife had a birthday cake brought out (right). This was a very sweet touch and one that I was not expecting at all since the booking had been made at short notice. We were far too full to eat any cake at the time but we got through it over the ensuing days and it was a gorgeous, lighter-than-light sponge with proper icing and a real treat.<br />
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Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester is a fine example of real top-end dining. The service was perfectly judged, the room stunning, the ambience a relaxing purr. The problem in a couple of instances was the menu. Dishes that should have hit the spot and didn't are never a good thing, but they are nearly unforgivable at this level. Whilst one should never expect perfection, one should gain as near as possible at a restaurant like this.<br />
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It was a lovely evening, a genuine surprise and an experience I won't forget. Even when places aren't perfect, as long as there's enough to enjoy it usually means the evening was worth it. It's certainly not cheap but I'm sure I could be tempted back again one day.<br />
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<a href="http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/">Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester</a><br />
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Palm Court at The Langham - West End, Thursday July 4th<br />
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After the majesty and occasion of The Dorchester, I couldn't help but feel the rest of the week was going to be relaxing aside from a pre-planned dinner with the family. Of course, with a day off work on the big day, the wife had big plans and afternoon tea was taken. We'd actually <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/palm-court-at-langham-west-end-sunday.html">been here before</a>, though not for any particular occasion and certainly not for a formal afternoon tea. In this case, it was a proper side table in the main tea room, and a full afternoon tea to get through.<br />
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A posh, west end afternoon tea is always somewhat lost on me since I've never been much of a tea drinker. As far as I'm concerned, you need decent sandwiches, good cakes, cracking scones and hang the hot beverages. The problem with afternoon tea for any hotel trying to push an upmarket afternoon out is that there's little room for manoeuvre and even less room to hide. If you try to jazz things up too much, you invariably end up looking foolish. If you try to stick to the classics, any small mistake is irreparably heightened. Basically, you have to do what <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/afternoon-tea-at-dorchester-mayfair.html">The Dorchester</a> does.<br />
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Palm Court had chosen the safe route, which is generally the right way to go and we were both fairly pleased with the menu on offer. The sandwiches to start were about as classic as one could get with afternoon tea: salmon, egg, beef, chicken, prawns. In fact, they did miss a trick by omitting the traditional cucumber and cream cheese, but the choice was impressive.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mCoszH38Pts/VdKFZFPVdGI/AAAAAAAACD0/fmG9VOIiSw8/s1600/DSC03084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mCoszH38Pts/VdKFZFPVdGI/AAAAAAAACD0/fmG9VOIiSw8/s200/DSC03084.JPG" width="200" /></a>We tried one of each, each. Naturally. The array was visually quite pleasing, with enough safe breaks from uniformity to keep things interesting (left). As is often the case, the roast beef was a winner, with tarragon mustard and cress adding some lightness and spice to the rich meat. The egg mayonnaise was also a pleasant classic, served in a soft white roll. The salmon with creme fraiche and caraway, served in an almost bitter chocolate-like bread was not doing it for me, with no real merit in the serving or the ingredients. So far, so standard.<br />
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Where scones are concerned, I am forever torn between eating proper-sized workman's café scones with flora and cheap jam and the miniature masterpieces with clotted cream you get in hotels. I think the compromise is somewhere in between, though that usually means one has to go to Cornwall for a scone served with the precise size and correct sides. In lieu of several hours driving, when one is in the west end, one eats dainty, two-bite scones with impeccable sides. Or at least that's the plan.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UdHVoNz4SV8/VdKFEJ_pz6I/AAAAAAAACDo/Wo3z7lu7wPg/s1600/2013-07-04-14-01-22_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UdHVoNz4SV8/VdKFEJ_pz6I/AAAAAAAACDo/Wo3z7lu7wPg/s200/2013-07-04-14-01-22_deco.jpg" width="200" /></a>These were decent scones, though not much more than that (right). Dusted with icing sugar for a nice party look, they were warm and served with plenty of room temperature clotted cream (the only way) and rich strawberry jam. We devoured these without much pause aside the wife adding her standard inadvisable amount of clotted cream to each mouthful. These were certainly nothing to sniff at.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4IjGhxYy_pE/VdKFpKDpSsI/AAAAAAAACEM/7S-DgklZMpc/s1600/DSC03092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4IjGhxYy_pE/VdKFpKDpSsI/AAAAAAAACEM/7S-DgklZMpc/s200/DSC03092.JPG" width="150" /></a>The cakes (I can never really call a cake course "pastry" considering scones have just been taken) followed, which were another round of standards with a twist (left). These were good basic ideas which had, in general, been taken too far from the original to be easily identifiable. The banana cake, for example, turned out to be two small round sponges. Not necessarily bad, but definitely lacking the same kind of satisfying sweet stickiness a classic banana cake brings. Equally, the two pastry coffins containing a decent enough ganache were not exactly what I'd call "chocolate tart".<br />
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There were two things that annoyed me about the dessert plate. Firstly, the 'Victoria sponge' was nothing like the sort of light, mild cake with sweet jam and fine icing within and more of a leftover sponge cylinder with buttercream icing and decorative sweets. Secondly, the menu had billed 'strawberry meringue' and hibiscus & blackcurrant jelly', which turned out to be one dessert. Playfully presented as a lollipop-slash-macaroon on the plate, it was not as fun as the former and not as refined as the latter. Not bad necessarily but not memorable for the right reasons either.<br />
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Afternoon tea at The Langham was not one for the ages or anything to threaten some of the better afternoon teas one can get in London. At times decent, at times poor, most of all rather uninspiring, the menu certainly needs a re-think. The room itself is a well-lit, pleasant place to be but the afternoon tea is not matching the locale and the atmosphere.<br />
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<a href="http://palm-court.co.uk/">Palm Court at The Langham</a><br />
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La Trompette - Chiswick, Thursday July 4th<br />
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No birthday is complete without a family meal as far as I'm concerned. Every year we tend to use birthday as a good reason to get everyone together. I certainly see less of my immediate family than my siblings, so birthdays tend to be a decent excuse. We picked La Trompette, not only as <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/one-more-off-list-la-trompette-chiswick.html">somewhere I'd enjoyed previously</a>, but somewhere not too central or overly expensive. One thing I've always admired about this place is the fact that Michelin-starred dining remains competitively priced.<br />
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The problem with trying to review a meal with six around the table is that it's damned difficult to try everything. The good news is that everyone had a lovely evening. There were some hitches, notably the fact that my sister-in-law was drenched in champagne when one of our waitresses spilled a glass on her. My father also found the sommelier a little overbearing when trying to order wine. This is foreign territory to me, but when someone knows what they're talking about, it's best to let them decide what to have instead of trying to be prescriptive.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rCMARtZVpok/VdoelGfg5TI/AAAAAAAACEg/pJQ9UVdA7PE/s1600/DSC03096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rCMARtZVpok/VdoelGfg5TI/AAAAAAAACEg/pJQ9UVdA7PE/s200/DSC03096.JPG" width="200" /></a>I decided to get started with the summer vegetable salad, possibly to try and compensate for the day's earlier afternoon tea (right). It was not the prettiest plate I've seen but it was tasty. Chilled fresh peas with a pea <i>bavarois </i>combined a pleasant softness and temperature variation. Fresh asparagus is never a bad thing in summer, with carrots (not so summery), a perfectly crisp pheasant egg and grated ewe's cheese topping things. It was a well-balanced effort which I enjoyed a lot and was certainly perfect for a warm summer's evening. It wasn't quite at the level of a salad I'd enjoyed at <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/launceston-place-sunday-23rd-december.html">Launceston Place</a> previously - their dish reminded me a little of this - but very worthy in the event.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tknzco4gESI/VdoelFKrWJI/AAAAAAAACEw/AA6l9nxOlOQ/s1600/DSC03100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tknzco4gESI/VdoelFKrWJI/AAAAAAAACEw/AA6l9nxOlOQ/s200/DSC03100.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife started with veal tartare, which was served with asparagus, artichokes, potatoes and tuna cream (left). Whilst I was slightly taken aback by the initial description (I later discovered this to be a classic Italian combination), the actual plate as a whole was enjoyable. The veal was as tender as anything and sat wonderfully well with the asparagus and artichokes in particular. These were grilled to add a little smokiness to the plate, with the fried potatoes bringing a delightful crunch. It was excellent eating.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzDgH-Swo-g/Vdoe4OCa-XI/AAAAAAAACE4/zSIhCiePMHI/s1600/DSC03102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzDgH-Swo-g/Vdoe4OCa-XI/AAAAAAAACE4/zSIhCiePMHI/s200/DSC03102.JPG" width="200" /></a>My main course leapt off the page at me despite it appearing as somewhat out of season. A guinea fowl dish with girolles would usually be right at home in autumn but I'm a sucker for any sort of classically-presented game and I was pleased with my choice (right). The breast was moist and expertly-cooked, combining predictably well with the braised leeks and mushrooms. The raviolo of braised leg was very nice but slightly too thick for me. As a dish it was another winner, with safe but well-executed combinations making the whole thing work.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDuRl34z2mY/Vdoe4uXhviI/AAAAAAAACFA/Bkci3gmbwLM/s1600/DSC03103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDuRl34z2mY/Vdoe4uXhviI/AAAAAAAACFA/Bkci3gmbwLM/s200/DSC03103.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife went for some fish for her main course, with the dish of choice being another that required little deliberation. A fillet of roast seabass atop farfalle pasta with lemon thyme and chicken roasting juices with mushrooms is the sort of thing that needs no second invitation (left). This was a delicious, meaty piece of fish which was superbly supported by the quality of its sides. The fresh pasta added a slightly lighter yet grounding touch to the plate, combining wonderfully with the rich chicken gravy and mushrooms to create a plate that made you want to take another bite with each mouthful. A seriously memorable dish and one that, yet again, made complete sense.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FMYkmbvvSdw/Vdoe5qvol8I/AAAAAAAACFE/oqufHEg-rlw/s1600/DSC03106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FMYkmbvvSdw/Vdoe5qvol8I/AAAAAAAACFE/oqufHEg-rlw/s200/DSC03106.JPG" width="200" /></a>When eating in restaurants, I usually try to insist the table eats as many varied dishes as possible to keep things interesting and to get a good idea of what the restaurant is about. In this case, five of the six of us had the same dessert and I wasn't about to complain with the consistency. When one sees a banana soufflé with honeycomb ice cream on a menu, it just has to be ordered (right). This was a spectacular dessert which we all loved. A couple at the table felt it was a bit over-sweet which I can appreciate, but it didn't stop the wife and I finishing their leftovers. It was rich, light, comforting and had a wonderfully natural taste. I love banana but it can often taste a little artificial when incorporated into desserts and confectionery. This was a special dessert and one we all remember fondly.<br />
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This was a special evening at the end of a very special few days. We all enjoyed ourselves despite the champagne shower (not a euphemism) and the slightly patchy service. This is food that is properly thought-out, unpretentiously served and generally very delicious. La Trompette expanded their restaurant into the holdings next door a few years back and it seems like a sound move. Always busy, never over-crowded and managing to straddle that fine line between neighbourhood favourite and special occasion venue, this is somewhere that should run and run.<br />
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<a href="http://www.latrompette.co.uk/">La Trompette</a><br />
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If birthdays are spent doing what one enjoys, then a birthday full of eating was certainly the ticket for me. It was a fun week, taking in mainly enjoyable meals. I think the highlight was most probably Heinz Beck, despite it being first out of the gate. This was a series of meals leaning towards upmarket food, but the down-to-earth Medlar menu on a Saturday night was refreshingly simple and pleasant, whilst Burger & Lobster could have been a triumph but for some heavy-handedness with the salt.<br />
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Whilst I don't think the wife's birthday was ever likely to be topped (he said proudly), this was a lovely few days of memorable food with loved ones. A fulfilled life shouldn't need much more than that. Plus, it was six Michelin Stars in six days which is a pleasant feat to look back on.Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-53107575195748958092015-07-26T18:00:00.000+01:002015-08-04T18:36:35.257+01:00Top 100 UK Restaurants 2015 - LondonThe <a href="http://www.nationalrestaurantawards.co.uk/">National Restaurant Awards</a> were held at the end of June and as one of the few remaining standards here, below is a summary of the London portion of the list. London has always had a fairly transient restaurant scene but the 23 new entries make for some fairly surprising reading. The highest of these is a bit of a bolter, with the Hart brothers' new <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/barrafina-madd-soho-friday-july-6th-2012.html">Barrafina</a> venture in Covent Garden taking the crown less than a year after opening. <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/top-100-uk-restaurants-2014-london.html">Last year's</a> new entry number one, Gymkhana, moves down to fourth place overall.<br />
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<a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.com/2011/06/number-one-ledbury-notting-hill-monday.html">The Ledbury</a> maintains its excellent record amongst the country's elite, with notable climbs also for The Dairy, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/holy-grail-restaurant-gordon-ramsay.html">Restaurant Gordon Ramsay</a>, Restaurant Story and 40 Maltby Street. Conversely, significant falls occur elsewhere for <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/dinner-by-heston-blumenthal.html">Dinner by Heston Blumenthal</a>, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/dream-realised-le-gavroche-mayfair.html">Le Gavroche</a>, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/quo-vadis-soho-sunday-25th-april-2010.html">Quo Vadis</a>, Chiltern Firehouse, Marcus and most notably, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/late-entry-pollen-street-social-mayfair.html">Pollen Street Social</a> and <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/st-john-smithfield-saturday-2nd-october.html">St John</a>.<br />
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As well as the big new entry at number one, the rest of the list sees other significant fresh venues as well as re-entries. Lyle's in Shoreditch proves the latest trend of down-scaled, simplified British food still remains, with local neighbour The Typing Room further down the list for the first time. Mayfair is all of a sudden an exciting place to eat again, with Kitty Fisher's, Fera and Scott's all present. The Middle East is also well-represented this year, with the Kings Cross branch of Dishoom, Honey & Co and The Palomar adding a little variation to the list.<br />
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Once again, over half the best places to eat remain in London; if you believe this list. Even though the overall number is a little lower than last year, the fact that we have such variety, excitement and change in London is only ever a good thing. Restaurants have to adapt and keep customers interested and, as ever, there are a huge array of places to eat, enjoy and celebrate.<br />
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1 <a href="http://www.barrafina.co.uk/">Barrafina Adelaide Street</a> - New Entry</div>
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3 <a href="http://www.theledbury.com/">The Ledbury</a> (3)</div>
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4 <a href="http://www.gymkhanalondon.com/">Gymkhana</a> (1)</div>
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6 <a href="http://lyleslondon.com/">Lyle's</a> - New Entry</div>
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9 <a href="http://the-dairy.co.uk/">The Dairy</a> (24)</div>
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10 <a href="https://www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/restaurant-gordon-ramsay/">Restaurant Gordon Ramsay</a> (59)</div>
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11 <a href="http://thecloveclub.com/">The Clove Club</a> (2)</div>
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12 <a href="http://www.hedonerestaurant.com/">Hedone</a> (7)</div>
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13 <a href="http://www.restaurantstory.co.uk/">Restaurant Story</a> (26)</div>
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15 <a href="http://thepalomar.co.uk/">The Palomar</a> - New Entry</div>
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16 <a href="http://www.kittyfishers.com/">Kitty Fisher's</a> - New Entry</div>
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17 <a href="http://feraatclaridges.co.uk/">Fera at Claridge's</a> - New Entry</div>
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21 <a href="http://www.dishoom.com/kings-cross/">Dishoom King's Cross</a> - New Entry</div>
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23 <a href="http://www.awong.co.uk/">A Wong</a> - New Entry</div>
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25 <a href="http://www.40maltbystreet.com/">40 Maltby Street</a> (67)</div>
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26 <a href="http://www.zuccalondon.com/">Zucca</a> - New Entry</div>
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31 <a href="http://www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk/">Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs</a> (15)</div>
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32 <a href="http://www.dinnerbyheston.com/">Dinner by Heston Blumenthal</a> (9)</div>
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33 <a href="http://www.squarerestaurant.com/">The Square</a> (10)</div>
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34 <a href="http://thequalitychophouse.com/">The Quality Chop House</a> (37)</div>
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35 <a href="http://www.josepizarro.com/pizarro-restaurant/">Pizarro</a> - New Entry</div>
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36 <a href="http://rivercafe.co.uk/">The River Café</a> (33)</div>
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38 <a href="http://www.socialeatinghouse.com/">Social Eating House</a> (43)</div>
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39 <a href="http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/">Hibiscus</a> (25)</div>
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40 <a href="http://honeyandco.co.uk/">Honey & Co</a> - New Entry</div>
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43 <a href="http://www.grainstore.com/">Grain Store</a> (28)</div>
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44 <a href="http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/">Le Gavroche</a> (21)</div>
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45 <a href="http://thehawksmoor.com/locations/airstreet/">Hawksmoor Air Street</a> (57)</div>
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48 <a href="http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/">Wild Honey</a> - New Entry</div>
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49 <a href="http://www.scotts-restaurant.com/">Scott's</a> - New Entry</div>
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50 <a href="http://sushitetsu.co.uk/">Sushi Tetsu</a> (41)</div>
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55 <a href="http://www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa">Ametsa by Arzak Instruction</a> - New Entry</div>
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57 <a href="http://www.pollenstreetsocial.com/">Pollen Street Social</a> (5)</div>
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58 <a href="http://www.pittcue.co.uk/">Pitt Cue</a> (70)</div>
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59 <a href="http://www.quovadissoho.co.uk/">Quo Vadis</a> (35)</div>
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60 <a href="http://www.lardo.co.uk/">Lardo</a> - New Entry</div>
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64 <a href="http://www.yauatcha.com/">Yauatcha</a> - New Entry</div>
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65 <a href="http://www.bernerstavern.com/">Berners Tavern</a> (46)</div>
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66 <a href="http://www.chilternfirehouse.com/restaurant/luxury-london-restaurant">Chiltern Firehouse</a> (17)</div>
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70 <a href="http://duckandwaffle.com/">Duck & Waffle</a> - New Entry</div>
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71 <a href="http://www.typingroom.com/">The Typing Room</a> - New Entry</div>
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74 <a href="http://www.brawn.co/">Brawn</a> - New Entry</div>
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76 <a href="http://www.the-berkeley.co.uk/knightsbridge-restaurants/koffmanns/">Koffmann's</a> (64)</div>
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78 <a href="http://www.marcus-wareing.com/">Marcus</a> (49)</div>
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82 <a href="http://www.muranolondon.com/">Murano</a> - New Entry</div>
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83 <a href="http://ottos-restaurant.com/">Otto's</a> - New Entry</div>
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85 <a href="http://hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-mayfair/">Hakkasan Mayfair</a> - New Entry</div>
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89 <a href="http://meatliquor.com/">MEATLiquor</a> (80)</div>
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95 <a href="http://www.littlesocial.co.uk/">Little Social</a> - New Entry</div>
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97 <a href="http://www.antidotewinebar.com/">Antidote</a> - New Entry</div>
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100 <a href="https://www.stjohngroup.uk.com/smithfield/">St John </a>(34)</div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-1304437052890722022015-04-13T18:00:00.000+01:002015-04-13T18:00:01.795+01:00Soho Food Feast - Saturday 8th June, 2013Soho is still probably the most exciting place to eat out in the country. Well, in London maybe. I can certainly say that nowhere else in the capital presents quite the condensed array of varied and exciting options available than the neighbourly west end. Once a year the Soho Food Feast rolls into the area, as a community support programme for the Soho Parish Primary School.<br />
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A friend had a spare ticket so I obliged and we spent the afternoon wandering between stalls, paying not much more than a few pounds for fare you'd usually find at Soho venues, repackaged for a festival atmosphere. In some cases, the restaurants were not from Soho but were London institutions keen on supporting a good cause. A half-cut Sean Bean opened the event (I don't think he knew much about this other than being asked to do so shortly before stepping up) and we got stuck in.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CM7lvJuIXi0/UbcXP8FZzrI/AAAAAAAABD0/zIlv2IquZvc/s1600/IMG-20130608-00069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CM7lvJuIXi0/UbcXP8FZzrI/AAAAAAAABD0/zIlv2IquZvc/s200/IMG-20130608-00069.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>The first thing we tried were a couple of oysters from the <a href="http://www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk/restaurants/soho_oyster_house/">Wright Brothers</a>, who have a franchise of their chain in Soho (left). These were your standard oyster fare for London: some shallot vinegar with lemon juice and were rather pleasant. Fresh, smooth, properly sea-salty and - as is my usual - one was just enough. When it comes to oysters, I can never eat more than maybe two or three but I always find that, if of sufficient quality, just one can set a meal up beautifully. In terms of this afternoon, it was a nice way to get started.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G_Sagi9QVrM/UbcXPxjloxI/AAAAAAAABDs/li_8-Kipwp8/s1600/IMG-20130608-00070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G_Sagi9QVrM/UbcXPxjloxI/AAAAAAAABDs/li_8-Kipwp8/s200/IMG-20130608-00070.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>The next was an interesting-sounding dish from <a href="http://www.10greekstreet.com/">10 Greek Street</a>, a place I had yet to visit. This was a medley of salad themed around crab (right.) That's the honest description I would give it, because theirs - 'crab with chilli, asparagus, broad beans and mint' sounded a bit more lively than this was. Not the sort of dish I might usually order, my friend was keen and I'd heard enough good things about the restaurant to want to try it. In the event, it was too much greenery, not enough payoff. The idea was sound but the execution wasn't great.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JvQPX-cmjsg/UbcXP4HnIeI/AAAAAAAABDw/tVYq57Jw4H0/s1600/IMG-20130608-00071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JvQPX-cmjsg/UbcXP4HnIeI/AAAAAAAABDw/tVYq57Jw4H0/s200/IMG-20130608-00071.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="http://www.unionclub.co.uk/restaurant.php">The Union</a> was next up. A place I was entirely unfamiliar with but very tempted by their dish on offer: a salt cod fritter with ailoi (left). This was certainly the first dish of the day where I was excited to get stuck in. It made sense, it looked great and happily it tasted great too. The salt cod was a combination of mild and flavoursome, combined expertly with the soft potato and sharpness of mayonnaise and lemon. For comfort food on a sunny Saturday, this kind of thing was just right.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h50vrt9aP4c/UbcXQxwhTII/AAAAAAAABEA/ITWslbfM1wg/s1600/IMG-20130608-00072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h50vrt9aP4c/UbcXQxwhTII/AAAAAAAABEA/ITWslbfM1wg/s200/IMG-20130608-00072.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a><a href="https://www.deanstreettownhouse.com/restaurant">The Dean Street Townhouse</a> is a place I've often walked past and thought about how much I'd like to see what's inside. It revels in an alluring combination of bustling, chic, grandiose neighbourliness. That might be something of an incongruous description but that's what Soho does to people. In the case of the Food Feast, they'd gone for a home-styled comfortable classic in mince and potato (right). I'm not sure if they were going for a genuine appeal to the sort of traditional fare they offer at the Townhouse, or if they were trying to be overly kitsch and knowing with a simplistic treat. It wasn't bad but the potato could've been either crispier or creamier, dropping in the middle for a slightly confused finish to a dish which confused me.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lB4uCwbiW6A/UbcXQ_05lCI/AAAAAAAABEE/AxCXYXn2Uck/s1600/IMG-20130608-00073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lB4uCwbiW6A/UbcXQ_05lCI/AAAAAAAABEE/AxCXYXn2Uck/s200/IMG-20130608-00073.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>I'd not heard of the <a href="http://pitstopuk.co/">Pitstop Café</a> before. They had a stall at the event and were serving dumplings (left). These were prawn-filled, <i>gyoza </i>dumplings which had a pleasant enough mix of crispy and gelatinous outer layers and moist prawns inside. Finding out more about the Café itself, these became more impressive having eaten them. An exercise in the most appealing, modern take on Asian food which doesn't happen enough in this country, these were a smart representation of what one should be looking for when one goes towards a food truck.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfaF-UivJAs/UbcXRJ5foVI/AAAAAAAABEM/xaiYaF0dETY/s1600/IMG-20130608-00074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfaF-UivJAs/UbcXRJ5foVI/AAAAAAAABEM/xaiYaF0dETY/s200/IMG-20130608-00074.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>The scent of grilled beef wafted across the parish churchyard and I was happy to embrace the call of burgers. <a href="http://www.themeatwagon.co.uk/">Meatwagon</a>, the founding venture of <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/meatliquor-gelupo-marylebone-soho.html">MeatLiquor</a> had set up a stall on the day and their slider burger with cheese was impossible to resist (right). These were exceptional, happily reminiscent of my first visit to MeatLiquor, rather than the second. Medium-rare cook with proper seasoning and deliciously plastic cheese, these were worth the queue and a real treat.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aWf5ttXislU/UbcXRs12O2I/AAAAAAAABEU/5HwW2Q5Pm0I/s1600/IMG-20130608-00075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aWf5ttXislU/UbcXRs12O2I/AAAAAAAABEU/5HwW2Q5Pm0I/s200/IMG-20130608-00075.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>Next up; some spicy chicken and sweet potato fries from <a href="http://www.cabana-brasil.com/">Cabana</a>, a Brazilian barbecue joint with locations across the capital. The chicken was far too hot for me but I ate most of the sweet potato fries. Brazilian barbecue rarely appeals to me. Much of the food is cold by the time it reaches the table and often your seat in the restaurant dictates what you'll be eating depending on how servers are moving. That said, Cabana may be worth a visit some time down the line...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uE37RFQPrVM/UbcXR4jpSMI/AAAAAAAABEY/f4K98gLd91k/s1600/IMG-20130608-00076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uE37RFQPrVM/UbcXR4jpSMI/AAAAAAAABEY/f4K98gLd91k/s200/IMG-20130608-00076.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Apart from Sean Bean, there was another celebrity in the churchyard, with <a href="https://www.stjohngroup.uk.com/">St John</a>'s Fergus Henderson pottering about - usually to periodically grab another Pisco sour. The great restaurant group had a stall, serving a dish which was reassuringly rustic and uncomplicated: ox heart bun with watercress and horseradish (right). The combination was predictably excellent and celebrated a pleasant cheap cut of meat with simple side accompaniments. I took too big a bite at one point and got that inimitable feeling of too much mustard destroying one's nose. I did enjoy it and there's something nice about seeing Fergus Henderson in a chef's jacket in person.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jkfIAl1nTBM/UbcXSqVJVfI/AAAAAAAABEw/pSoYuMHa2HM/s1600/IMG-20130608-00078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jkfIAl1nTBM/UbcXSqVJVfI/AAAAAAAABEw/pSoYuMHa2HM/s200/IMG-20130608-00078.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Upmarket food retailer <a href="http://www.natoora.co.uk/shop/index.ep">Natoora</a> had a stall at the event, and I could not resist the temptation of mozzarella and cherry tomatoes with a little olive oil (left). It was inexpensive and a refreshing dish for a summer day. However, since it had been cut earlier in the day, there was a slight dryness to the outside of the cheese. Having said that, as an advertisement for decent produce from a proper food shop, it worked well.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UpPoEPTSibw/UbcXSGQepGI/AAAAAAAABEo/0oxVKGPtG4U/s1600/IMG-20130608-00077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UpPoEPTSibw/UbcXSGQepGI/AAAAAAAABEo/0oxVKGPtG4U/s200/IMG-20130608-00077.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>One place I had heard plenty about before the event was Peruvian canteen <a href="http://cevicheuk.com/">Ceviche</a> and we didn't hesitate to sample their signature raw seabass (right). Ceviche as a dish is something I'm never sure about but it's more trepidation around something I've had little exposure to in the past. The dish was enjoyable, a light and fresh-flavoured marinade coating the soft fish. Citrus notes cut through with the addition of onion and sweet potato adding some substance to the dish. If nothing else, I certainly need to try this place out at some point.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-groYFJ5tOjk/UbcXSqQzv1I/AAAAAAAABE0/V6LYG3KUTAE/s1600/IMG-20130608-00079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-groYFJ5tOjk/UbcXSqQzv1I/AAAAAAAABE0/V6LYG3KUTAE/s200/IMG-20130608-00079.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Another of London's prominent restaurateurs in Mark Hix was represented with something called a <a href="http://www.hixrestaurants.co.uk/hixsfishdog/">Fish Dog</a> (left). As it turns out, this is simply a case of a snack food being lifted to something fashionable and marketable at various outdoor events. Basically a take on a fish finger sandwich, this was special. Perfectly deep fried fish with mushy peas and tartare sauce in a bun, it was comfort festival food at its best. Plus I was able to adapt an <a href="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/arresteddevelopment/images/9/9c/4x01_P-hound.png/revision/latest?cb=20130527011848">Arrested Development reference</a> and spent the rest of the day referring to them as "F-Hounds".<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UnR1_F4uL-Q/UbcXTNfascI/AAAAAAAABFA/exf9dY7MHIo/s1600/IMG-20130608-00080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UnR1_F4uL-Q/UbcXTNfascI/AAAAAAAABFA/exf9dY7MHIo/s200/IMG-20130608-00080.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Naturally, <a href="http://www.polpo.co.uk/">Polpo</a> was present with a casual summer bruschetta (right). This was served with soft cheese, asparagus, peas, broad beans & mint. It was a surprisingly pleasant combination which worked quite well as a finish to the savoury portion of the day. Freshness was the most important part of the dish, as tends to be the case when something as raw and open as this is concerned.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6-UrKIGDWfU/UbcXTWwBAcI/AAAAAAAABFE/zo8oXtVVXhY/s1600/IMG-20130608-00081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6-UrKIGDWfU/UbcXTWwBAcI/AAAAAAAABFE/zo8oXtVVXhY/s200/IMG-20130608-00081.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>Amongst running into some friends, listening in on St. John co-founder Trevor Gulliver delivering a wine tasting and an unfortunate incident involving a youngster throwing up beer on my shirt, we found our way to desserts. This opened with a black forest pot from <a href="http://www.the-ivy.co.uk/">The Ivy</a> (left). A festival adaptation of an old classic from a restaurant renowned for their interpretation of classics, this was not bad at all. Some chocolate popping candy as a topping was a nice touch, and the fruit wasn't overly acidic or alcoholic.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ka61KXKIeLA/UbcXTvBQ1KI/AAAAAAAABFM/uZcOAgxczKE/s1600/IMG-20130608-00082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ka61KXKIeLA/UbcXTvBQ1KI/AAAAAAAABFM/uZcOAgxczKE/s200/IMG-20130608-00082.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>There wasn't much I wanted to try in the way of pudding, but 10 Greek Street were back in the mix with an enticing-sounding salted chocolate and caramel tart with crème fraiche (right). It was delightful. Whilst I've never been as enthralled with salted caramel as many seem to be these days, chocolate with salt is something I adore. In this case, the Soho kitchen had got it just right. Dark chocolate with salt contrasted perfectly with the sweetness of the caramel and the pastry was perfect.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yPy5uldJCJo/UbcXULQtqFI/AAAAAAAABFQ/DTPPd1tCuy0/s1600/IMG-20130608-00083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yPy5uldJCJo/UbcXULQtqFI/AAAAAAAABFQ/DTPPd1tCuy0/s200/IMG-20130608-00083.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>We had a few tokens leftover so I headed to the venerable <a href="http://www.gelupo.com/">Gelupo</a> cart to see what essentially £2 could buy me. In the event, it was <i>one scoop</i> of ice cream which I thought was a bit rich. I opted for their more simple milk <i>fior de latte</i> (left). It was as delicate, natural and light as ever. A proper, sensible way to sign off a day of eating.<br />
<br />
It was a really fun afternoon about the Soho parish churchyard. More reasonable than something like <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/taste-of-london-regents-park-sunday.html">Taste of London</a>, albeit without the top names and demonstrations, it's certainly recommended. Since it's the only big food event I've done in recent times, I feel something akin to a 'menu of the day' would be suitable. As such...<br />
<br />
Starter: Polpo - Summer bruschetta. Proper ingredients and edible with just a couple of bites. This is the sort of thing I'd eat inside or out with the days getting longer<br />
<br />
Main Course: The Union - Salt cod fritter. Excellent balance of pleasurable, comfortable food and properly dressed to boot<br />
<br />
Dessert: 10 Greek Street - Salted chocolate caramel tart. An excellently-made tart with deliciously complimentary touches. I could've eaten several slices<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.sohofoodfeast.co.uk/">The Soho Food Feast</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-75077129242985103212015-04-13T14:00:00.001+01:002015-04-13T14:00:03.302+01:00Another Wedding Celebration - The Zetter Hotel: Clerkenwell, Saturday May 25th, 2013Nearly two years ago, the wife and I celebrated our marriage. Again. My friends have been having a whale of a time ribbing me about the fact that we had "three weddings" ever since. Whilst this isn't strictly speaking true, it is a strange thing that we did so much to celebrate an event that people usually only celebrate once. To put it in context, we'd had a tiny ceremony in January 2012, topped off with a meal at <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/three-lunches-at-le-vacherin-sunday-4th.html">Le Vacherin</a>, a place about which I have vowed not to write more about. This meant we could only celebrate with a small selection of family and very close friends.<br />
<br />
Later that year we'd gone to Taiwan to allow us to celebrate and officially declare our union with the wife's family and friends. A "small" 350 guest affair (not my idea of a small do, mind) was a quite sensational banquet, with lifelong memories for all guests who made it out to the event, particularly from the UK. However, this meant that there were still several very close friends with whom we had not yet had the chance to celebrate, and we still hadn't 'put on' a do of our own. One year on from the wedding in Taiwan, we booked out the restaurant at The Zetter Hotel and invited all to enjoy food, drinks and dancing on us.<br />
<br />
We'd been to <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/bistrot-bruno-loubet-spuntino.html">The Zetter</a> not long after our actual wedding, where we had been wowed by some classic French cooking with modern twists at Bistrot Bruno Loubet. Fine, filling, boisterous food, it was a meal to remember. So much so that, within a few months, I was suggesting we organise our final matrimonial hurrah there. It turned out to be the right choice. The staff were helpful, efficient and sensitive to what we wanted. We did some menu tastings and enjoyed a great day complete with funny stories, mild drama, great pictures, excellent weather and (most importantly) great food.<br />
<br />
Several people remarked that the meal was a highlight, with many saying they expected the food to be great, such is the wife and I's proclivity toward eating out. The menu was a hearty three-courser made up of Guinea fowl <i>boudin blanc</i>, beef daube bourguignon with mashed potato, and a creme brulee with passion fruit and pineapple salad. Of course, in light of the day, there was no time to take photos and document this with the sort of precision I try to, but the meal was great. Afterwards, they provided a delicious cake with different layers, snacks later on in the evening, plus additional cakes and refreshments. It was a brilliant, unforgettable day.<br />
<br />
Now, there is a point to me writing this, aside from the self-congratulatory validation of celebrating a wedding three times over. Namely, The Zetter is a great place to eat, stay and enjoy oneself. Whist <a href="http://www.grainstore.com/">The Grain Store</a> might be the place taking up most of Bruno Loubet's time these days, the original in the Clerkenwell hotel is still a fun and refreshing place to be. Whether for a weekend lunch, a formal meal or some casual drinks and snacks, it's seriously worth a visit. It remains a quirky, original and pleasant restaurant to dine in, one of the best hotel eateries I have sampled.<br />
<br />
Weddings can be painfully formal, formulaic things. I'm happy to say that, when the wife and I did it, we did it how we wanted to. Three times over might be excessive, but we know how to eat. And The Zetter knows how to put on a party. From here on, I'll only write about anniversary meals, no more weddings.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.bistrotbrunoloubet.com/">Bistrot Bruno Loubet at The Zetter Hotel</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-64066034542071694152014-10-06T19:00:00.000+01:002014-10-06T19:00:00.709+01:00Michelin Guide 2015 - London RestaurantsLike the inevitability of Christmas tastelessness in the shops, The Michelin Guide pops up startlingly early in the year. So much so that this post, whilst earlier than last year's, is actually slightly tardier in terms of the Guide's release. I would apologise but doing so seems patronising given my form so far this year.<br />
<br />
To business, it's something of an anti-climactic year for London (or next year will be - it's the 2015 Guide I guess...) with two fewer restaurants in the list overall. There are no changes at the top, with the two- and three-star joints untouched. In the one-star category, there are some hard falls. <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/at-celebrity-hangout-nobu-mayfair-23rd.html">Nobu</a> and its sister restaurant in Berkeley Square both lost their stars, which somewhat vindicates my review but is a surprise nonetheless.<br />
<br />
Bo London, Tom Aikens and Viajante all closed, rendering their losses academic. Aikens is looking at re-locating out of Chelsea into somewhere more central which will be an interesting story to keep an eye on. Elsewhere, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/remembering-classic-medlar-chelsea.html">Medlar</a> lost its star which I thought near-impossible but at least it should ensure their pricing remains gloriously competitive. Worryingly, One Leicester Street (which replaced the St John Hotel restaurant) and <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/aspleys-heinz-beck-restaurant.html">Aspley's by Heinz Beck</a> also lost their stars. Even more worryingly, due to closures. I can't find evidence of these at the time of writing but it's dreadfully sad if so.<br />
<br />
The good news, despite the eight losses, is there are six new stars to celebrate. Gymkhana, recently named the <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/top-100-uk-restaurants-2014-london.html">best restaurant in the country</a>, is the most predictable of these, capping quite a first year. The Clove Club and Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs also see their high-ranking places on the list gaining official recognition. Jason Atherton's gradual spread across the capital sees a new star for City Social, while Claridges' decision to recruit Simon Rogan of L'Enclume to run their restaurant has paid swift dividends. I am personally pleased that <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/birthday-tapas-barrafina-soho-sunday.html">Barrafina</a> has got itself a star, though it's going to make getting a table even more difficult.<br />
<br />
The full list of London's representation is below. Whilst awards don't always count for much, Michelin Stars usually give us all a steer on where to go when the occasion dictates...<br />
<br />
<b>Three Stars</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 264px;">
<colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 9654; mso-width-source: userset; width: 198pt;" width="264"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt; width: 198pt;" width="264"><a href="http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/">Alain Ducasse
at The Dorchester, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad/">Restaurant Gordon
Ramsay, Chelsea</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><div>
<b>Two Stars</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 402px;">
<colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 14701; mso-width-source: userset; width: 302pt;" width="402"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt; width: 302pt;" width="402"><a href="http://www.dinnerbyheston.com/">Dinner by Heston Blumenthal,
Hyde Park & Knightsbridge</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.the-connaught.co.uk/london_restaurant.aspx">Hélène Darroze
at The Connaught, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/">Hibiscus, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/">Le Gavroche, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.the-berkeley.co.uk/marcus_wareing.aspx">Marcus Wareing
at The Berkeley, Belgravia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://sketch.uk.com/venue_Lecture_Room.php?menu=1">Sketch (The Lecture
Room & Library), Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk/greenhouse.htm">The Greenhouse,
Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.theledbury.com/">The Ledbury, North Kensington</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.squarerestaurant.com/">The Square, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>One Star</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 463px;">
<colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 16932; mso-width-source: userset; width: 347pt;" width="463"></col>
</colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt; width: 347pt;" width="463"><a href="http://www.alynwilliams.co.uk/">Alyn Williams at the Westbury,
Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.amaya.biz/">Amaya,
Belgravia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa">Ametsa with
Arzak Instruction, Belgravia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://anglerrestaurant.com/">Angler, Islington</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk/">Arbutus, Soho</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://barrafina.co.uk/">Barrafina, Soho</a> - New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.benaresrestaurant.com/">Benares, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://brasseriechavot.com/index_main.html">Brasserie
Chavot, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.chezbruce.co.uk/">Chez Bruce, Wandsworth</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://citysociallondon.com/">City Social, City of London</a> - New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://thecloveclub.com/">Clove Club, Shoreditch</a> - New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.clubgascon.com/cc_contact.php">Club Gascon, City of London</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://dabbous.co.uk/">Dabbous,
Fitzrovia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://feraatclaridges.co.uk/">Fera at Claridges, Mayfair</a> - New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.galvinatwindows.com/">Galvin at Windows, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.galvinrestaurants.com/section.php/61/1/galvin_la_chapelle">Galvin
La Chapelle, Spitalfields</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.gymkhanalondon.com/">Gymkhana, Mayfair</a> - New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.hakkasan.com/hanway-place/">Hakkasan Hanway Place,
Bloomsbury</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.hakkasan.com/mayfair/">Hakkasan Mayfair, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://harwoodarms.com/">Harwood Arms, Fulham</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.hedonerestaurant.com/Home.html">Hedone, Chiswick</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://hkklondon.com/">HKK,
Shoreditch</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.kaimayfair.co.uk/kai/kaihome.html">Kai, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk/">Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, Bloomsbury</a> -
New Star</td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.kitchenw8.com/">Kitchen W8, Kensington</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.latrompette.co.uk/">La Trompette, Chiswick</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.joelrobuchon.co.uk/">L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Strand
& Covent Garden</a></td>
</tr>
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<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk/">Launceston Place,
Kensington</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.lautrepied.co.uk/default.asp?V_SITE_ID=16">L'Autre Pied,
Regent's Park & Marylebone</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.limalondon.com/">Lima, Regent's Park &
Marylebone</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.locandalocatelli.com/">Locanda Locatelli, Regent's Park
& Marylebone</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.gordonramsay.com/maze/">Maze, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.muranolondon.com/">Murano, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.html">Outlaw's at the
Capital, Belgravia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.gordonramsay.com/petrus/">Pétrus, Belgravia</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.pied-a-terre.co.uk/home">Pied à Terre, Bloomsbury</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.pollenstreetsocial.com/">Pollen Street Social, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.quilon.co.uk/">Quilon, Victoria</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.rasoi-uk.com/">Rasoi, Chelsea</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.stjamesclubandhotel.co.uk/en/seven-park-place-by-william-drabble">Seven
Park Place, St James's</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.socialeatinghouse.com/">Social Eating House, Soho</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.stjohnrestaurant.com/">St John, Clerkenwell</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl66" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.restaurantstory.co.uk/index.php">Story,
Bermondsey</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.tamarindrestaurant.com/">Tamarind, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://texture-restaurant.co.uk/">Texture, Regent's Park
& Marylebone</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk/">The Glasshouse, Kew</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php">The River Café, Hammersmith</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.trishnalondon.com/">Trishna, Marylebone</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.umurestaurant.com/umu.htm">Umu, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/">Wild Honey, Mayfair</a></td>
</tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;">
<td class="xl65" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"><a href="http://yauatcha.com/">Yauatcha,
Soho</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-32115284222307083442014-09-13T18:00:00.000+01:002014-09-13T18:00:01.317+01:00Mews Of Mayfair - Mayfair, Friday May 17th, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">One of the many wonders of eating out in London is how there's always something new to try. It's virtually impossible to get bored or ever be out of places to go. Equally, it's often the case that you just can't decide where to go and, instead of trying somewhere new, you end up reverting to type. But that's okay too. We all have our favourites and one of the best things about eating out in my book is re-trying places hoping for, sometimes experiencing, different outcomes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">This was a third visit to <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/mews-of-mayfair-mayfair-thursday-21st.html">Mews Of Mayfair</a>, the first having been in pre-blog days, and the wife plus two companions and I essentially decided on going there because nowhere else would be able to fit us in on a Friday night at short notice. It's not the most glamorous of reasons to choose anywhere but sometimes necessity dictates the way.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-egIwXS5e0a4/U8p_fk2mu8I/AAAAAAAAB7g/vka7gh1TPeI/s1600/DSC02874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-egIwXS5e0a4/U8p_fk2mu8I/AAAAAAAAB7g/vka7gh1TPeI/s1600/DSC02874.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Given that my experiences here have spanned some six years or so, it's interesting reflecting on the changes that have taken place. At first, it was an upmarket joint serving very of-the-moment food and trying to move into a slightly higher level of cuisine without totally hitting the mark. A few years on, it was undecided as to whether or not to pursue this or to settle for something more homely. Last year, it seemed to have gone down more of the comfortable embrace of British locality, their menu giving us a rather charming map of where all their choice produce came from (left).</span><br />
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Equally, the décor and atmosphere are now closer to a simple, more laid back brasserie or bistro style. The place has relaxed for sure. But what does it mean to the food? As I am always saying, provided the stuff on the table tastes good, I'll eat and enjoy whatever the case. Four of us got through a decent amount of dishes (sadly not the 12 I would expect at dinner for four but close enough) which gave an interesting insight into Mews Of Mayfair's current ambitions.</span></div>
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</span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ub1huiLuu_A/U8p_4ToK24I/AAAAAAAAB74/ec9fy7OnhbE/s1600/DSC02880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ub1huiLuu_A/U8p_4ToK24I/AAAAAAAAB74/ec9fy7OnhbE/s1600/DSC02880.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Starters were more for sharing than anything else, and the two dishes we ordered fit the bill. Crispy baby squid with salad and mayo is always going to work as long as it's cooked right and in this case, it was about right (right). There was a sensible mixture of crunch and chew within the meat of the dish and we all nabbed a piece or two as we got on with things.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9i_nG3nG4Is/U8p_7g6P4HI/AAAAAAAAB8I/sp8rC8sthes/s1600/DSC02883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9i_nG3nG4Is/U8p_7g6P4HI/AAAAAAAAB8I/sp8rC8sthes/s1600/DSC02883.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Next up was a dish that could only be considered a sharing plate in the circles I move in: scallops with samphire and bacon (left). Many people find my proclivity for sharing food an odd, slightly over-personal thing but those who know me best seem to accept it. As such, three scallops were carved up between the group and we all tried a bit. The consensus was that, whilst the scallops were by no means the best out there, the dish worked. Samphire is a delicious, slightly salty textural contrast to a scallop and the bacon was honey-cured and smoked, meaning there was no overload of salt and the sweetness completed the dish. It was a nice, if slightly unimaginative starter, though for £12.50 I would have been rather peeved if it hadn't delivered.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R5sgZ0oj-LE/U8qARbfzxmI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/8ZNV4yGsDOE/s1600/DSC02885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R5sgZ0oj-LE/U8qARbfzxmI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/8ZNV4yGsDOE/s1600/DSC02885.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">The wife went for the rump of lamb which came with tinkerbelle peppers and basil (right). The construct of the dish worked fairly well, with the peppers diced as a base for the meat, with basil used as seasoning. There were breadcrumbed vegetables on the side to add texture and the cook on the meat was about right. Not a spectacular dish by any means but a good one. The thing was, for £24, lamb rump should be moving above just "good" and this was a problem.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYnA7YPzUT4/U8qAU7NwcyI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/LCf_K4-qRaI/s1600/DSC02889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYnA7YPzUT4/U8qAU7NwcyI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/LCf_K4-qRaI/s1600/DSC02889.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">One dish we had no problems with was the safe but well-executed sea trout with scallop, asparagus and pea purée (left). Combinations like this (similar to the scallop starter) are hard to get wrong but difficult to make spectacular. In the event, the creaminess of the peas and the properly-cooked asparagus combined wonderfully well with the trout and the scallop. The saltiness of the main events with the sweetness and textural variation of the vegetables were smart, modern and enjoyable. At £17.50, this was a lot more in line with what I would expect to be paying at a modern British restaurant for pleasant food.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DYNHLdWvXxI/U8qAt-wSwpI/AAAAAAAAB8w/psQBy1FSq24/s1600/DSC02897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DYNHLdWvXxI/U8qAt-wSwpI/AAAAAAAAB8w/psQBy1FSq24/s1600/DSC02897.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I opted for the Gressingham duck with peppercorn sauce (right). It seemed like a no-brainer to me: I fancied something meaty, it seemed a snip at £15.50 and there's something ever so appealing about a dish which speaks to you as soon as you read it on a menu. There were issues though... The duck was a touch overcooked which made for a grim start. The apples weren't prominent in the sauce, overpowered by the peppercorns. I'm not sure this was a bad thing however, since the sauce did work. The real downer was the pointless addition of sloppy spinach along with diced pepper. Adding nothing but bulk and colour, I was fairly bored halfway through.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsQlA4cLkn0/U8qAvqBNsDI/AAAAAAAAB84/5NLMhcScYzs/s1600/DSC02901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsQlA4cLkn0/U8qAvqBNsDI/AAAAAAAAB84/5NLMhcScYzs/s1600/DSC02901.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">We were all a bit unsure of what to make of the meal so far. There had been ups and downs and desserts could have a big influence on how we felt about the meal. We decided to share two between four since nobody was still significantly hungry and the first of these was something called '"Ethel Brumpton's" vanilla cheesecake' (left). It was a decent enough cheesecake; light, creamy and not too sweet. The addition of a passion fruit marshmallow on top was a nice enough touch which added some sweetness and acidity came from the raspberry sauce. Not bad at all.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRVQDgCNaEY/U8qA2G46pVI/AAAAAAAAB9A/3Pd-1hvEzIw/s1600/DSC02903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRVQDgCNaEY/U8qA2G46pVI/AAAAAAAAB9A/3Pd-1hvEzIw/s1600/DSC02903.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">We finished off with the custard tart which was served with rhubarb (right). This was a real treat, with the tart rich and comforting, served with a side of delicious poached rhubarb which added a typical sweet and tart contrast to the simple creaminess of the custard. Rhubarb ripple ice cream on the side was a real touch of class, adding a temperature contrast and an element of fun to the plate. This was quite possibly the best thing we ate all evening.</span><br />
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It was an interesting meal with some high notes and a few shockers, but it averaged out as a decent night with a few friends. In one sense, that's all one can ask for at a fairly standard kind of place in London, but then again at some of the prices we paid, average isn't good enough. I'm not sure I'd go back to Mews - maybe once more to decide what I really think of it - but it's certainly not somewhere I'll be hurrying back to. There's something I don't like about places where one will have a good meal provided one orders "the right dishes". I'm starting to think Mews Of Mayfair is one of those places.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.mewsofmayfair.com/site/brasserie.asp">Mews Of Mayfair</a></span></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-2048353188692957072014-07-21T13:00:00.000+01:002014-07-21T13:00:04.620+01:00Patara: Soho, Thursday May 9th, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Anybody who has been reading these pages for some time now will know my feelings on Thai food have changed a lot in the last few years. Once I felt it was a sort of fad which meant Asian food I liked was getting unfairly overlooked. More recently, I have come around to the fact that it can actually deliver on the sort of flavours and sensations I really enjoy in Asian foods. Of course, there's the natural level of spice which doesn't agree with me and the frequent use of ingredients I can't stand, but I have discovered there's plenty out there I can get on board with.</div>
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Last May a former colleague of mine was visiting London with his family, so a meal out was suggested, as tends to be my way. The wife and I met the family of four in Covent Garden and took a walk down to Soho in search of somewhere suitable. We decided Thai food was a viable option so went for a table for six at Patara, a chain which has several branches across the world, with a strong presence in London.</div>
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The atmosphere within the restaurant is quite a pleasant, refined one. It is quiet - possibly a little too quiet if the meal was for just the two of us - which made it a well-judged choice for the two children at the table. What I found slightly off-putting was the way it occasionally, in terms of service and menu, veered into the realms of that slightly tacky stereotypical Asian style which can be most unappealing. Fortunately it never became patronising which was a relief.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ubx06UCN1yw/U8p7icMSsgI/AAAAAAAAB7U/kXQK0zXim2w/s1600/DSC02861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ubx06UCN1yw/U8p7icMSsgI/AAAAAAAAB7U/kXQK0zXim2w/s1600/DSC02861.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>The food itself was pleasant and rather varied. The menu did have a slightly vague feel to it, with probably a few too many dishes at first glance. Things started with a surprisingly refreshing stuffed chicken wings plate (left). They were tender, moist and crispy, with crunchy lemongrass and lime as a dressing. This is the kind of comfort food I didn't think was possible in a Thai restaurant.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ayP20bEmO00/U8p7bVc5zpI/AAAAAAAAB7M/X4lDDMfGbHI/s1600/2013-05-09-20-57-35_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ayP20bEmO00/U8p7bVc5zpI/AAAAAAAAB7M/X4lDDMfGbHI/s1600/2013-05-09-20-57-35_photo.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>Next up were some <i>kong neum ruam</i>, or dumplings (right). These were fairly close to the kind of dim sum snacks I just adore and they were not bad at all. A combination of attractive colours with prawns, chicken and pork made for a great sharing starter. Elsewhere we had some chicken skewers with satay sauce which wasn't far away from the kind of standard fare one expects from a takeaway place.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHOJVue0MII/U8p2t_ghJ6I/AAAAAAAAB6o/vOJ1lCdrRvk/s1600/DSC02865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHOJVue0MII/U8p2t_ghJ6I/AAAAAAAAB6o/vOJ1lCdrRvk/s1600/DSC02865.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Main courses featured an interesting beef cooked in an 'aromatic coconut reduction' (left). The beef was nicely slow-cooked, falling apart with minimal fuss. The sauce was a little too heady for me, too strong with coconut but the spicing was excellent. A dish which really surprised me and I finished almost all of it.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oskezS7JzI4/U8p250MNhLI/AAAAAAAAB7A/38GUF9H_V6I/s1600/DSC02870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oskezS7JzI4/U8p250MNhLI/AAAAAAAAB7A/38GUF9H_V6I/s1600/DSC02870.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife ordered a speciality dish of lamb shank braised in red coconut curry (right). It was too hot for me but the meat was cooked expertly, even better than the beef I'd chosen. The sauce was a rich, deep orange which coated the meat appetisingly. It was an interesting take on Thai food which I had not seen before, taking something rather rustic and homely, transforming it into a special, celebratory plate of food.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GZd5CJkTxyI/U8p2wp8un2I/AAAAAAAAB60/xxLn576dRVM/s1600/DSC02866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GZd5CJkTxyI/U8p2wp8un2I/AAAAAAAAB60/xxLn576dRVM/s1600/DSC02866.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Another dish which was a bit much for me but widely praised by others was the sliced duck served with garlic, chilli and crispy basil (left). I'd not seen much duck used in Thai cookery until this but it was inventive, if over-spiced. There was a distinct freshness to the dish which helped elevate it.<br />
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The evening progressed in a pleasant and comfortable sort of way. There is something quite incongruous about a refined Thai restaurant in Soho - it certainly doesn't capture the Zeitgeist of where Soho is moving these days - but it's a nice place to be. The younger of the children was very tired but the staff were perfectly happy to let her take a nap on the banquette. It was a fun evening with friends and - though it's not somewhere I'd go again in a hurry - if you're into your Thai food in a classic surrounding, it may well be the place for you.<br />
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<a href="http://www.pataralondon.com/contact-patara-thai-restaurant-london-soho.php">Patara</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-78113131279610219692014-07-16T09:00:00.000+01:002014-07-16T09:00:08.666+01:00Birthday Tapas - Barrafina: Soho, Sunday May 5th, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I always believed that the finest food was found somewhere between Italy and France. People have remarked that northern Italy is fantastic in this regard because it combines both extraordinary European cuisines in a perfect way. My father once took a business trip to the region and returned saying he was almost fed up of truffles, so rich and common were they in the season he'd visited. They don't mess about in Piedmont.</div>
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This remained my opinion for a number of years until the wife and I met a fellow food writer in Barcelona where we had a wonderful lunch. We went to a lovely restaurant and got some really interesting insight into Catalan and Spanish cuisine. I also realised there may be a second place in the world in which to find the finest food. San Sebastian in the Basque region of Spain borders France and, in much the same way as northern Italy, you get the best of both worlds. I'm now torn as to which place I should visit first, but proper tapas in San Sebastian is something I can't wait to sample one day. The man behind <a href="http://www.foodbarcelona.com/">this excellent site</a> certainly sold me on the idea.</div>
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Good tapas is hard to find anywhere. Many places serve it, few can get it right. <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/barrafina-madd-soho-friday-july-6th-2012.html">Barrafina</a> was a great meal out for my birthday a while back and, when a friend of ours suggested a meal for her birthday there, we were only to keen to join. In the event, three of us attended, but for an early lunch on a Sunday, it was just about right. We took an outside table, ordered a huge variety of dishes and whiled away the early afternoon as they arrived.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-genuhXsM0ZU/U0MzyDKezVI/AAAAAAAABuc/ARboMWasT6s/s1600/DSC02843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-genuhXsM0ZU/U0MzyDKezVI/AAAAAAAABuc/ARboMWasT6s/s1600/DSC02843.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>We split our orders between the specials board and the main menu, meaning we had a pleasant spread of familiarity and adventure. The first thing we ate was the reliable, dependable, un-exciting but totally reassuring ham croquette (left). Salty but slightly sweet, soft and creamy on the inside, two of these for £4.50 is nothing to sniff at. Spanish ham is never to be taken for granted, and putting it in a croquette is a beautiful way to invoke such excellent flavour.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1GaDojsMNsw/U0MzzU8IM7I/AAAAAAAABuk/6B1R10Muhgg/s1600/DSC02844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1GaDojsMNsw/U0MzzU8IM7I/AAAAAAAABuk/6B1R10Muhgg/s1600/DSC02844.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Next up was a special in the form of cuttlefish with fennel alioli (right). This was very well prepared and fresh. I am not the hugest fan of shellfish but it was an enjoyable taster. The fennel mayonnaise worked quite well, adding some sharp flavour to the dish. I do think it was slightly over-priced at nearly £8 but that's probably down to my tastes. The girls enjoyed it very much and polished it off promptly.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tA8oYvS9PZc/U0Mz03rTaGI/AAAAAAAABus/4mq0f4EFrZE/s1600/DSC02845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tA8oYvS9PZc/U0Mz03rTaGI/AAAAAAAABus/4mq0f4EFrZE/s1600/DSC02845.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>If the cuttlefish hadn't quite done it for me, the next seafood special was much closer to my idea of fun: razor clams (left). These were the same £7.80 as the cuttlefish but, for me, far more enjoyable. Served with diced fresh parsley and seasoned butter, they were worth every penny. Cooked to a just-right resistance, they were soft with enough bite to be flavoursome and rich. The seasoning was understated enough to bring the seafood to the fore and the whole plate was excellent.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oUP19DHvW1Y/U0M0M4nOe6I/AAAAAAAABu0/j-0tMgRHjJ4/s1600/DSC02847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oUP19DHvW1Y/U0M0M4nOe6I/AAAAAAAABu0/j-0tMgRHjJ4/s1600/DSC02847.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>There are certain things on a menu which cannot be ignored. When you see a certain dish, said dish must be ordered without delay. The words "Chicken Thigh with Romesco Sauce" lend themselves to such an impulse (right). We'd eaten this before but this was better. The over-seasoning from our first visit had been dealt with, the skin was gorgeously crispy, the spicy tomato sauce and the garlic mayonnaise were superb complementary dressings. When upmarket Spanish tapas becomes comforting and homely, it's a lovely thing.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t9pCMqZGTNc/U0M0PO4tqjI/AAAAAAAABu8/-619lEO2yD8/s1600/DSC02849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t9pCMqZGTNc/U0M0PO4tqjI/AAAAAAAABu8/-619lEO2yD8/s1600/DSC02849.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDes4m9YS6s/U0M0P8yirtI/AAAAAAAABvA/vZJwV8bZbw0/s1600/DSC02850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDes4m9YS6s/U0M0P8yirtI/AAAAAAAABvA/vZJwV8bZbw0/s1600/DSC02850.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The girls were drawn to the oysters from the specials board and ordered one each (left). served with diced red pepper and spring onion, they enjoyed them without much fuss. At £2.80 per oyster they were a bit toppy but that's what one should expect in Soho for fresh oysters. I was feeling a little more rustic so I occupied myself with chips & bravas sauce (right). Crunchy, crisp chips seasoned with thyme salt, spicy tomato sauce on the side... Nothing wrong here, which means they were excellent.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jyH3Ekig7jM/U0M0luC3zwI/AAAAAAAABvM/G3Ao9JiY518/s1600/DSC02851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jyH3Ekig7jM/U0M0luC3zwI/AAAAAAAABvM/G3Ao9JiY518/s1600/DSC02851.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UkRQWqpvMrY/U0M0nz3iWqI/AAAAAAAABvY/V6cA-9AI_9k/s1600/DSC02852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UkRQWqpvMrY/U0M0nz3iWqI/AAAAAAAABvY/V6cA-9AI_9k/s1600/DSC02852.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>Last visit, we'd ordered some pork belly which was an indulgence we regretted. This time, pig cheeks with celeriac purée was something the three of us couldn't resist. Maybe it was the fact that three of us meant it was more reasonably spread, but this was much better judged than the belly had been. Tender, slow-cooked meat in rich, strong gravy with a smooth root purée was just lovely and not at all like the forced dish we'd tried the year before (left). To go with this, we ordered some beautifully fresh summer peas with ham (right). Perfectly balanced, this was a side plate to remind us how much we should treasure the simple things on our tables.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8SlShA6fK4/U0M0n80QH7I/AAAAAAAABvU/uUQUXe_BbMQ/s1600/DSC02854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8SlShA6fK4/U0M0n80QH7I/AAAAAAAABvU/uUQUXe_BbMQ/s1600/DSC02854.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Three diners, three desserts seems like a simple equation. The wife and I have been known to buck that trend, along with various friends over time. The ordering of four desserts between three, six between four and so on is a total luxury but a lot of fun if you're as fond of sugar as I. In the event, the three along with all the food we'd already eaten were plenty (left). We tried a Santiago Tart, which turned out to be a bit like a fruit cake in pastry-based form. It was rich with fruit, spicing and soft filling. I loved it, despite the presence of almonds (which aren't really nuts anyway).<br />
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The Catalan Cream (Spanish crème brulee to you and me) was perfectly nice. Not over-hard on top and suitably comforting underneath, it's like it's French equivalent - or the one that was invented in England first - just not quite as fine. Still, there was none left so I shan't complain. The chocolate tart was a thing of rich and sumptuous quality, with pastry of the right crumbly texture and the chocolate ganache dark, thick and strong. The richness of the mix lent a slight nuttiness to the tart which convinced the wife there were actual nuts in it. A literal debate with the waiter began, much to my amusement as I continued to eat about 60% of the pudding we'd ordered.<br />
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This was a lovely birthday meal: an excellent choice for some Sunday lunch at a quality which is frequently unattainable when looking for tapas in London. We were very satisfied with our choices, the service and most importantly the quality of the dishes on show. The big drawback of this place can be the waiting time for a table, but once you're there it's in a league of its own.<br />
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<a href="http://barrafina.co.uk/">Barrafina</a></div>
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The most impressive news for London is the reclaiming of the top spot, with Mayfair's Gymkhana storming in at number one after less than a year in operation. Karam Sethi has been winning over diners and critics with an authentic style of cooking which I can't wait to sample. Something of a shock but an exciting surprise nonetheless.<br />
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The Clove Club of Shoreditch continues its meteoric rise, sitting at number 2, whilst The Ledbury's position of third is testament to the hard work which has given the restaurant years at the top. <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/a-vision-becomes-reality-hedone.html">Hedone</a> rises into the top ten whilst The Square deservedly holds its place in the higher rankings. Restaurant Story in Bermondsey won the award for highest climber, moving up nearly 70 places.<br />
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Other notable runs up the list came from the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, somewhere I had not realised as being such an appealing prospect, Koya of Soho which rose 30 places and Jose, shooting into the top 40. Goodman Mayfair may be at number 40 this year, but that's still a remarkable jump of 53 places. Conversely, there are significant drops for 10 Greek Street (42 places), La Petite Maison (40 places) and, most dramatically, <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.com/2012/07/chez-bruce-wandsworth-sunday-march-11th.html">Chez Bruce</a> (49 places). Consistency expected at the highest level is unwavering.<br />
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The new entry count is encouraging too, with The Chiltern Firehouse cracking the top 20, The Dairy in Clapham the top 30 and Sushi Tetsu a rather disappointing 41. I say disappointing because there is a review of this place in the offing. And yes, it's superbly late as ever. Marcus Wareing's re-launch of his <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/birthday-weekend-to-remember-15th-18th.html">Berkeley Hotel outfit</a> (as simply 'Marcus') sees the newly-appointed <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-27792534">BBC MasterChef Professionals</a> judge re-take a top 50 place.<br />
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Have a read, make a reservation, sample some of the UK's best. London might have a couple fewer restaurants in the top 100 than last year, but it's taken back the number one spot, shot a load of new places into the list and is still a great place to be eating food.<br />
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1 <a href="http://www.gymkhanalondon.com/">Gymkhana</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 <a href="http://thecloveclub.com/">The Clove Club</a> (5)<o:p></o:p></div>
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3 <a href="http://www.theledbury.com/">The Ledbury</a> (2)<o:p></o:p></div>
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5 <a href="http://www.pollenstreetsocial.com/">Pollen Street Social</a> (3)<o:p></o:p></div>
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7 <a href="http://www.hedonerestaurant.com/">Hedone</a> (14)<o:p></o:p></div>
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9 <a href="http://www.dinnerbyheston.com/">Dinner by Heston Blumenthal</a> (10)<o:p></o:p></div>
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10 <a href="http://www.squarerestaurant.com/">The Square</a> (8)<o:p></o:p></div>
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15 <a href="http://www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk/">Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs</a> (38)<o:p></o:p></div>
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17 <a href="http://www.chilternfirehouse.com/">Chiltern Firehouse</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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21 <a href="http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/">Le Gavroche</a> (19)<o:p></o:p></div>
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22 <a href="http://www.koya.co.uk/">Koya</a> (52)<o:p></o:p></div>
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24 <a href="http://www.the-dairy.co.uk/">The Dairy</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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25 <a href="http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/">Hibiscus</a> (21)<o:p></o:p></div>
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26 <a href="http://www.restaurantstory.co.uk/">Restaurant Story</a> (95)<o:p></o:p></div>
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28 <a href="http://www.grainstore.com/">Grain Store</a> (9)<o:p></o:p></div>
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29 <a href="http://brasseriechavot.com/">Brasserie Chavot</a> (16)<o:p></o:p></div>
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30 <a href="http://mayfieldswiltonway.co.uk/">Mayfields</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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31 <a href="http://boccadilupo.com/">Bocca di Lupo</a> (15)<o:p></o:p></div>
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33 <a href="http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php">The River Café</a> (44)<o:p></o:p></div>
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34 <a href="https://www.stjohngroup.uk.com/smithfield/">St John</a> (42)<o:p></o:p></div>
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35 <a href="http://www.quovadissoho.co.uk/">Quo Vadis</a> (23)<o:p></o:p></div>
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37 <a href="http://thequalitychophouse.com/">The Quality Chop House</a> (27)<o:p></o:p></div>
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38 <a href="http://www.josepizarro.com/restaurants/jose/">Jose</a> (63)<o:p></o:p></div>
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40 <a href="http://www.goodmanrestaurants.com/home">Goodman Mayfair</a> (93)<o:p></o:p></div>
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41 <a href="http://sushitetsu.co.uk/">Sushi Tetsu</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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43 <a href="http://www.socialeatinghouse.com/">Social Eating House</a> (33)<o:p></o:p></div>
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45 <a href="http://www.galvinatwindows.com/">Galvin at Windows</a> (71)<o:p></o:p></div>
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46 <a href="http://www.bernerstavern.com/">Berners Tavern</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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47 <a href="http://barrafina.co.uk/">Barrafina</a> (46)<o:p></o:p></div>
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48 <a href="http://hkklondon.com/">HKK</a> (29)<o:p></o:p></div>
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49 <a href="http://www.marcus-wareing.com/">Marcus</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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53 <a href="http://www.merchantstavern.co.uk/">Merchants Tavern</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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57 <a href="http://thehawksmoor.com/locations/airstreet">Hawksmoor Air Street</a> (32)<o:p></o:p></div>
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59 <a href="http://www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad/">Restaurant Gordon Ramsay</a> (62)<o:p></o:p></div>
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60 <a href="http://www.10greekstreet.com/">10 Greek Street</a> (18)<o:p></o:p></div>
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61 <a href="http://emberyard.co.uk/">Ember Yard</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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64 <a href="http://www.pierrekoffmann.co.uk/at-the-berkeley/">Koffmann's</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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65 <a href="http://www.lanima.co.uk/">L'Anima</a> (30)<o:p></o:p></div>
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67 <a href="http://www.40maltbystreet.com/">40 Maltby Street</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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69 <a href="http://www.alynwilliams.com/">Alyn Williams at the Westbury</a> (39)<o:p></o:p></div>
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70 <a href="http://www.pittcue.co.uk/home/">Pitt Cue</a> (70)<o:p></o:p></div>
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79 <a href="http://www.hutong.co.uk/">Hutong</a> (88)<o:p></o:p></div>
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80 <a href="http://meatliquor.com/london/">MEATliquor</a> (77)<o:p></o:p></div>
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83 <a href="http://www.chezbruce.co.uk/">Chez Bruce</a> (34)<o:p></o:p></div>
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86 <a href="http://www.latrompette.co.uk/">La Trompette</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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87 <a href="http://www.barboulud.com/london/">Bar Boulud</a> (53)<o:p></o:p></div>
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89 <a href="http://www.cafemurano.co.uk/">Café Murano</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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90 <a href="http://toastdulwich.co.uk/">Toasted</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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91 <a href="http://www.thewolseley.com/">The Wolseley</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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92 <a href="http://www.newmanstreettavern.co.uk/">Newman Street Tavern</a> (97)<o:p></o:p></div>
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94 <a href="http://www.moro.co.uk/">Moro</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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97 <a href="http://www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk/menus">The Greenhouse</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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98 <a href="http://lpmlondon.co.uk/">La Petite Maison</a> (58)<o:p></o:p></div>
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99 <a href="http://www.gauthiersoho.co.uk/#">Gauthier Soho</a> - New Entry</div>
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100 <a href="http://www.umurestaurant.com/umu.htm">Umu</a> - New Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-72987633550027584882014-06-13T09:00:00.000+01:002014-06-13T09:00:04.948+01:00Ducksoup: Soho, Thursday April 25th, 2013<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Back in the days when this blog was only laughably out of date, I wrote a review of a <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/ducksoup-soho-friday-14th-september-2012.html">Ducksoup dinner for three</a>. It was an unexpectedly enjoyable evening with some impressive dishes which still stick in the memory today. Some time on - with the blog now hilariously out of date - I'm writing about another visit there when four of us went for dinner.</div>
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Ducksoup remains a place I find exciting and interesting. It's quirky with its handwritten menus and wine list daubed on the room-wide mirrors, welcoming with the low-lit candles and vinyl player and - most importantly - good food. It's the last part that makes the whole thing work, since without good food, gimmicks become mind-numbing and irrelevant.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mXz16lYFNnc/U0MyZtTYVQI/AAAAAAAABtM/nFZ7ud6sVs4/s1600/DSC02803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mXz16lYFNnc/U0MyZtTYVQI/AAAAAAAABtM/nFZ7ud6sVs4/s1600/DSC02803.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We ate dinner the way four friends should eat dinner - in a collaborative and unreserved way. After bread & butter were dispensed with, we ordered some salted foie gras on crispy toast (left). It was soft, unctuously rich and satisfying but (critically) not over-dressed or showy. For something that tends to be considered rather pretentious, this was refreshingly simple and fairly priced at £8.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16k_gzJ4fQU/U0MydOm3GaI/AAAAAAAABtU/Aled0zDn4iM/s1600/DSC02804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16k_gzJ4fQU/U0MydOm3GaI/AAAAAAAABtU/Aled0zDn4iM/s1600/DSC02804.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Our next choice was a pleasant-sounding combination of goat's curd, courgette flowers and honeycomb. These delivered visually but the taste was a revelation for me (right). They were crisp-fried golden in a light batter, but the creamy, salty filling was complemented perfectly by the refreshing crunchy coating and the coarse, sweet honeycomb. For someone who usually steers clear of goat's cheese, this was a huge surprise, which we hadn't heard the last of...</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GLeJNFOmJc/U0MzApUR6sI/AAAAAAAABtc/IR0vqUb_Peg/s1600/DSC02806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GLeJNFOmJc/U0MzApUR6sI/AAAAAAAABtc/IR0vqUb_Peg/s1600/DSC02806.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We spent £10 on some raw langoustines with chilli & lemon, which meant half of one each around the table (left). This was a mistake since, whilst fresh and nicely chilled, the seafood was rather tasteless and an unrewarding struggle to remove from the shells. There was a distinct absence of flavour, which made me wonder if we'd missed something in eating these. At £5 a prawn, I would expect more bang for my buck here.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3uizPl1kKXc/U0MzJSWzDrI/AAAAAAAABtk/Fgc_2lCct_g/s1600/DSC02808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3uizPl1kKXc/U0MzJSWzDrI/AAAAAAAABtk/Fgc_2lCct_g/s1600/DSC02808.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>It was back to familiar and reliable territory for the next small plate, which was lardo on toast (right). At this point, we had started to overdo it with the bread, but the silky, salty meat was a welcome savoury punch, showing again that with a dish like this, simple really is the way to go.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AnqCcN-MbVM/U0Mxm8d6X5I/AAAAAAAABsk/A0oAL2lRT34/s1600/2013-04-24-20-38-54_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AnqCcN-MbVM/U0Mxm8d6X5I/AAAAAAAABsk/A0oAL2lRT34/s1600/2013-04-24-20-38-54_photo.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>A Lyonnaise salad was the first choice from the 'kitchen' section of the menu, and at £7, this was just about right (left). A proper blend of bitter leaves with lardons, breadcrumbs and vinaigrette over a deliciously-poached egg, it was balanced, delicate, flavoursome and enjoyable. If you're going to eat salad, this is the way to do it. Our friends were particularly impressed and started debating how it could be recreated at home.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8CWh5Fjr99s/U0MzRrP4vvI/AAAAAAAABt8/tvcSiW2lFfY/s1600/DSC02810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8CWh5Fjr99s/U0MzRrP4vvI/AAAAAAAABt8/tvcSiW2lFfY/s1600/DSC02810.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Our next larger plate was an interesting-sounding lamb, broad beans & labneh combination (right). There was something off about this, though it wasn't the temperature of the meat, which was a lovely red-pink inside. However, it was slightly charred on the outside, which doesn't really suit lamb - had it been a piece of beef it might have been great. Combined with the very mild yoghurt dressing and the inoffensive broad beans, this was a plate really missing a hit of flavour to take it to the next level.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bGRI9o62Ucg/U0MzsCVDQWI/AAAAAAAABuM/JT5LSd_cAec/s1600/DSC02812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bGRI9o62Ucg/U0MzsCVDQWI/AAAAAAAABuM/JT5LSd_cAec/s1600/DSC02812.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We shared a plate of St. George's mushrooms with thyme & parmesan (left). These are (I later found out) very popular seasonal mushrooms in Europe and I really hope they had been picked locally - particularly given the name. They were an interesting variation of textures and sizes and they certainly had the flavour the lamb had been missing. The delicate seasoning of thyme and the saltiness of the cheese made for a sensible overall plate but there was still something nagging away at me. I think it was the relative insubstantial feel of the whole thing. It just didn't feel right without a bit of starch to give it body. I'm aware that's probably not what the kitchen was going for but in terms of textural dimension, it was a near miss.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljSKL1tAT4U/U0MxmWTLn8I/AAAAAAAABsc/RURi3NN9zu0/s1600/2013-04-24-21-04-28_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljSKL1tAT4U/U0MxmWTLn8I/AAAAAAAABsc/RURi3NN9zu0/s1600/2013-04-24-21-04-28_photo.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>At this point, we decided the courgette flowers were so great we had to have another couple before turning our thoughts to pudding. The wife and friends demolished their crème caramel as soon as it hit the table (right). There's something about this classic which never hits the mark for me. Always too gelatinous to the touch and too bitter from the caramel sauce, I can't say I've ever loved it. However, the guys all thought it was excellent and - as often in cases like these - I bow to their superior knowledge.<br />
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I, on the other hand, was quietly working my way through a glass of chocolate mousse (left). This was a sweet, rich, hint-of-bitterness triumph. Unless you go seriously upmarket with a chocolate mousse, there are two outcomes: it's either good or it's not. In this case, it definitely was and as such we ordered another straight away. The crème fraiche as a topping was the right way to temper the richness and there's no finer endorsement of this dessert than the fact we ate two.<br />
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Ducksoup is now affirmed as one of my very favourite casual places to eat. Always affordable, rarely off point and adorably appropriate. This is a restaurant which deserves to be more than just an also-ran in the Soho pantheon of friendly, rustic eateries. It's a great restaurant in its own right.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ducksoupsoho.co.uk/">Ducksoup</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-54631428175296860912014-05-30T19:00:00.000+01:002014-05-30T19:00:03.695+01:00Bone Daddies: Soho, Sunday April 7th, 2013Soho as a food district is still the most happening place in London. For all the east end's newfound hipster energy and the expansion of Brixton's food scene, pretty much all successful new franchises are opening up in the busiest part of the west end. Any new opening in Soho is worth a study, and Bone Daddies ramen bar was a place the wife and I were hoping to try sooner rather than later.<br />
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Last spring presented an opportunity with a friend from Germany dropping into town for a few days so three of us showed up on a Sunday evening and had a pleasantly short wait for a table (of course you can't reserve tables since it's a modern-day Soho restaurant.) It has the perfect look and feel: bustling, noisy, casual and welcoming. For anywhere calling itself a ramen bar, this is what I'm interested in.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MDJpCHrIVdw/U0MxLc_RYLI/AAAAAAAABsE/Pq4eAyzeqb0/s1600/DSC02236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MDJpCHrIVdw/U0MxLc_RYLI/AAAAAAAABsE/Pq4eAyzeqb0/s1600/DSC02236.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>The menu is refreshingly simple too. A few types of ramen noodle bowls, a few specials on the board, a small variety of drinks... this is modern Japanese eating in the most appealing way. We got started with a few different items from the 'snacks' portion of the menu. First up were sweet 'n spicy ribs, which had the wife in particular in raptures (left). They were chunky, meaty, spicy as anything and genuinely close to the sort of pork ribs you might find in Asia, I was told. They were too hot for me but the wife and our friend made short work of them.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4-H9UJzdHVU/U0MxK8NtNJI/AAAAAAAABr8/pAz5TQUJotU/s1600/DSC02238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4-H9UJzdHVU/U0MxK8NtNJI/AAAAAAAABr8/pAz5TQUJotU/s1600/DSC02238.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>I was more interested in the fried chicken (right). Served oh-so-Soho in a mini metal bucket, it was crispy, tender and moist. The skin had been left on before frying which added a juicy, fatty texture without being flabby or excessive. The girls both tried some but about 75% of this was wolfed down by yours truly. If this is really a 'snack', I want a bucketful at my desk daily. Genuinely excellent starter finger food.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t-bxt7apHjc/U0MxJ3qWwAI/AAAAAAAABr0/At2QNe1zdUw/s1600/DSC02237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t-bxt7apHjc/U0MxJ3qWwAI/AAAAAAAABr0/At2QNe1zdUw/s1600/DSC02237.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We also went for some yellowtail sashimi with lime & soy sauce (left). This was chilled, fresh, soft and just about everything you want for a cold fish starter. The nature of this starter was that little bit more upmarket than the chicken and ribs. It was scaled back, elegant and just surprisingly fine. From the so-called 'snacks' alone, Bone Daddies had already won me over. The real challenge was to come with the main course though, since I'm not a huge fan of ramen or Asian soups in general.<br />
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I tend to enjoy thick, rich, <i>velouté</i>-style soups. The kinds of bowls which are the kind of sumptuous thing you need a spoon to eat, rather than being able to drink it out of a glass. Since Asian soups are most often thin they don't quite sit well with me. That said, anything one terms as 'soup' which also contains cuts of meat, eggs, vegetables and other tasty gubbins is a pleasant misnomer for me.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xDs8mMzcXm4/U0MxcE15VSI/AAAAAAAABsQ/PmBGTYSGsA0/s1600/DSC02246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xDs8mMzcXm4/U0MxcE15VSI/AAAAAAAABsQ/PmBGTYSGsA0/s1600/DSC02246.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>I looked at the menu and it advertised a special of 'BLTEC ramen'. As a joke I remarked that it might stand for bacon, lettuce, tomato, egg & cheese. A passing waitress mentioned that I was actually right, so I just had to give it a go. What I got was not quite in line with what I had imagined (right). It was more or less carbonara soup but thinner, with too much pepper. It was so rich you couldn't really taste the noodles and whilst some of the flavours were enjoyable, it just wasn't a bowl of what I would call Japanese food.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yKEbZDIkt4/U0MxblrK_SI/AAAAAAAABsM/AtjG1iFKtV8/s1600/DSC02244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yKEbZDIkt4/U0MxblrK_SI/AAAAAAAABsM/AtjG1iFKtV8/s1600/DSC02244.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The ladies decided to stick to more traditional ramen fare and were happy in doing so. The classic pork ramen was a sight to behold even to me (left). Combining shredded pork meat, pork bone broth, a poached egg, grilled sweetcorn, seaweed and all manner of subtle seasoning, this was a surprise to me and a happy familiarity to the wife and our friend. This had changed my opinion of ramen as I knew it which is no mean feat. The wife opted for a similarly soothing and fresh broth with seafood and Korean kim-chi. Too spicy for me by half but it was met with resounding approval.<br />
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Bone Daddies is one of the places in Soho which doesn't feel forced or tired. It's worth a visit because it is a smartly exciting restaurant serving food which actively stands out against its competition in the west end. It's authentic, inexpensive and fun. What else could one want?<br />
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<a href="http://bonedaddiesramen.com/">Bone Daddies</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-64613311635941529932014-04-11T13:00:00.000+01:002014-04-11T13:00:01.271+01:00Polpo: Covent Garden, Sunday March 31st, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
2013 was a year of big plans, big saving and big eating. Somehow we managed to fit the last part in there, though I can't really work out how. The wife and I continued to dine well all through last year, which, considering the lack of meals so far in 2014, is a blessing for my beleaguered efforts to bring this damn thing up to date. Over Easter, a friend visiting a friend visiting London gave us a great excuse to get another meal in there at the end of March.</div>
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<a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/polpo-soho-november-when.html">Polpo</a> has served us well since it opened on Soho's Beak Street. There have been occasional trips back and we have recommended it to just about everyone because if you want affordable, charismatic, fashionable Italian food; this is it. Covent Garden has been re-branded from the original guise of <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/da-polpo-covent-garden-friday-december.html">Da Polpo</a> to simply 'Polpo Covent Garden'. There are now three branches with the opening of a newer site in Smithfield and Polpetto has been re-located to Berwick Street in Soho. In amongst this, Russell Norman has also opened the <a href="http://apeandbird.co.uk/">Ape And Bird</a> pub, just to keep things fresh.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gf71Ei6SPlw/U0MwK_f5F9I/AAAAAAAABrA/h124HTyW3zM/s1600/DSC02211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gf71Ei6SPlw/U0MwK_f5F9I/AAAAAAAABrA/h124HTyW3zM/s1600/DSC02211.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Keeping it fresh is not something the wife and I tend to do when visiting a Polpo restaurant. It tends to be what we know we like with a little variation thrown in once in a while. Having others with us is good because it means we can try some dishes we would not usually give much thought to. In this case, the Sicilian white anchovy salad was one of them (left). Combining bitter, crunchy leaves with the salty fish, this was a pleasant and appropriate way to kick off an evening's eating.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoEI_hFcDDI/U0MwKnBi2EI/AAAAAAAABrE/1ar67FDPjiY/s1600/DSC02213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoEI_hFcDDI/U0MwKnBi2EI/AAAAAAAABrE/1ar67FDPjiY/s1600/DSC02213.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Our next stop was a special of the day we just could not resist: wild mushroom <i>pizzetta</i> (right). There is something about robustly-flavoured, soft mushrooms on a doughy base which I find irresistible and this was worth the £7.50 for sure. Equal parts delicate and simple, food like this needs no fanfare, it just needs eating.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qDvPwENQARg/U0MwkfdAf3I/AAAAAAAABrU/XJQZfSp4S8U/s1600/DSC02215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qDvPwENQARg/U0MwkfdAf3I/AAAAAAAABrU/XJQZfSp4S8U/s1600/DSC02215.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNyptRrvS4/U0MwliBxmpI/AAAAAAAABrc/9UcdBvYxVdI/s1600/DSC02217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNyptRrvS4/U0MwliBxmpI/AAAAAAAABrc/9UcdBvYxVdI/s1600/DSC02217.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We kept things very standard with our next two choices. We always seem to go for the spaghettini and meatballs at Polpo, the beef & pork a suitably comforting, bullish flavour with the ever so slightly spicy tomato sauce (above left). They were as hearty, warming and delightful as ever. Equally, the <i>fritto misto </i>was a crunchy, crispy plate of properly-battered and fried seafood (above right). It was light, full-flavoured, salty and fresh. The three of us devoured it with little regard for etiquette.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mW6vvm9XE9w/U0MwmP0emQI/AAAAAAAABrg/YXxzsBk85HY/s1600/DSC02219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mW6vvm9XE9w/U0MwmP0emQI/AAAAAAAABrg/YXxzsBk85HY/s1600/DSC02219.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The dessert we were all drawn to was the panna cotta, served with rhubarb and pistachio (left). Whilst I could see the appeal of some nut crumble to provide textural variation, the wife and I weren't interested and had one each with no nuts. Panna cotta is something I wouldn't usually choose when dessert comes around but rhubarb is. In this case, I was delighted with the choice. The cream was not overly set or gelatinous which is half the battle with pannna cotta. The rhubarb was poached to a gentle bite and the whole thing worked wonderfully well. It was a great end to a pleasant meal. So much so that the wife and I instantly ordered another each. When the bill came, we realised £32.50 had been spent on panna cotta. They were that good.<br />
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A meal at pretty much any Polpo branch is guaranteed to be fun, interesting and generally enjoyable. The food is not overpriced, it stays simple and is a reminder that good Italian food is all about a sensible balance between rustic and refined.<br />
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<a href="http://www.polpo.co.uk/">Polpo</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-15697404252832733832014-04-10T19:00:00.000+01:002014-04-10T19:00:05.252+01:00Universal Appeal? Jamie's Italian: Covent Garden, Tuesday March 19th, 2013I've never been one for attacking anything just because it's popular. If I don't particularly care for something which people seem to rave about, my resolve to stand by my opinion stiffens. Of course there are things in this world which are genuinely evil (The Black Eyed Peas' biggest hits and The X-Factor spring to mind) and their popularity ought to be challenged and derided at every opportunity.<br />
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Jamie Oliver is not someone (or something, so huge is his franchise now) that I despise, despite popularity. He is a champion of various righteous causes, he's encouraging people to cook better food and he is a realistic kind of guy. Well, maybe a meal in 30 or 15 minutes is a stretch since not everyone has a team helpfully assembling everything for you, but still. There are decent recipes in there and we've all made a Jamie dish at some point.<br />
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What I cannot abide, however, is the horrendous mockney shtick, the endless development of new ways to get the face on screen, the cavalcade of books (would you buy a book on great American cooking from a chef who half-trained in an Italian restaurant in London?), the ludicrous number of ingredients thrown into food which simply does not need it... So maybe there are some issues there after all. But, as I started by saying, the guy's alright.<br />
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Going to Jamie's Italian should be a sure thing, a home banker. Italian food is one of the things Jamie should be good at, given his background, and there can be great things in the simplest of Italian restaurants. The problem is, given that Jamie has put his name on everything, you're caught between expecting fantastic food which you 'n all yer mates can get stuck into and an apprehensive distaste for the oi oi saveloy feel of the place. The waiting staff all pedal a degree of the pseudo-cockney and it's not that enjoyable.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oyds48y24b8/U0QeuWRA2hI/AAAAAAAABwc/XAvMMhcLM1g/s1600/IMG-20130319-00061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oyds48y24b8/U0QeuWRA2hI/AAAAAAAABwc/XAvMMhcLM1g/s1600/IMG-20130319-00061.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>The menu is also a little confusing. One can order 'planks' as starters. I get the idea of the kitsch sharing dishes but it leaves an annoying taste in the mouth just from reading it. Surely a plate would be better, no? The contradictions continue: two friends ordered a plank to share and enjoyed it. A nice selection of cured meats is no bad way to get going... I chose to start with some stuffed pasta which were described as 'pillows' on the menu and which actually were pretty damn close to being so (left). The problem with these was the creamy cheese filling, which was a little too light and not giving a full-bodied Italian punch of flavour.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsUNc0nBRk0/U0QeufYYh5I/AAAAAAAABwY/qeiSyljRMPQ/s1600/IMG-20130319-00063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsUNc0nBRk0/U0QeufYYh5I/AAAAAAAABwY/qeiSyljRMPQ/s1600/IMG-20130319-00063.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>Main courses were another mixed bag. One friend ordered a crab pasta dish which he was delighted with and which, having tried, I thought wasn't half bad either. I decided to go for a favourite of mine: mushroom risotto (right). I had settled on this choice since the menu is such a large tome to study, littered with nauseating phrases - "Jamie's favourite!", "Jules's favourite!" - and dishes which just didn't belong. A burger on an Italian restaurant menu feels like playing to the lowest common denominator. This was somewhat lacking in the flavour, richness and creaminess one associates with great risotto. The mushrooms weren't strong enough, there wasn't enough butter and the whole thing was flat.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6b2EDzthwOE/U0QeuefBJVI/AAAAAAAABwU/-Oi48BdQoe0/s1600/IMG-20130319-00064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6b2EDzthwOE/U0QeuefBJVI/AAAAAAAABwU/-Oi48BdQoe0/s1600/IMG-20130319-00064.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>I wasn't sure what to make of this all so far. I had to go for a dessert to find out if something could salvage the meal and thankfully I chose well. The raspberry tart with almond was a pretty good way to finish (left). It was satisfyingly soft, rich and well-judged. This was by far my highlight of the evening and showed me there is some genuine simplicity lurking underneath the baffling menus and stacks of cooking books.<br />
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So there you have it. I think I wanted to dislike the place but in truth it isn't that bad. Given the array of restaurants in and around Covent Garden, it's not somewhere I would go back to, but if it was a family occasion with children I could totally see the appeal. This is not a restaurant striving for culinary perfection or epicurean purity, it's just trying to put people at tables. And it's doing so with ease.<br />
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And that's what I really do admire about Jamie Oliver. For all that's irritating, he's a remarkably savvy businessman. The success of his ventures speak for themselves and he's making a lot more money than some of his former contemporaries who were far more decorated cooks than he. Our obsession with Jamie has got to the point we'll eat just about anywhere he slaps his name on. My first musings on the guy were when the wife and I were surprised with his take on pizza at <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/union-jacks-wednesday-april-4th.html">Union Jacks</a>, which has sadly now only one location remaining, also in Covent Garden. Whilst that might have been a commercial failure, Jamie's Italian remains an internationally-renowned brand.<br />
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Maybe after all I just feel indifferent to Jamie Oliver. Unless he starts doing <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7VFcFrgPj4">stuff like this</a>. Then he invokes all the kind of unfettered loathing I usually reserve for the likes of Simon Cowell ventures and reality television.<br />
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<a href="http://www.jamieoliver.com/italian/restaurants/covent-garden">Jamie's Italian</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-34368100753340605512014-04-08T14:00:00.000+01:002014-04-08T14:00:07.636+01:00A Complaint Retracted - Thai Rice: Fulham, Friday 15th February, 2013Some time ago I wrote <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/siam-soho-thursday-july-26th-2012.html">this piece</a> on how Thai food was growing on me. Aside from all the irritating spicing, nuts where they don't belong and fragrances which just aren't to my taste, there is a lot of good in Thai food. On a Friday night early last year, I got a call from a good friend who fancied catching up. We compromised on Fulham as a location we could get to easily and were on our way.<br />
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Thai Rice is part of what you'd usually call a chain, five restaurants owned by the same group. Except they're not really a chain. Each restaurant has its own distinct website and menu. There are small intricacies which make each branch slightly different, meaning you're never quite sure what to expect. The Fulham place came with a pretty decent reputation, so I was happy to give it a go.</div>
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The evening sprawled out of control instantly. We ended up spending a frankly irresponsible amount of money on a last minute dinner for four, ordering what seemed like way too much but all of which was eaten. That tells you one thing: it was a fun evening. The wife had taken some advice from a friend in the know on what to order so we also sampled a few dishes we wouldn't have otherwise been aware of; a sure bonus when visiting a Thai restaurant.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ubMdN9tF-w/U0Moaoo-ulI/AAAAAAAABqQ/I50dLPGBZt8/s1600/DSC02066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ubMdN9tF-w/U0Moaoo-ulI/AAAAAAAABqQ/I50dLPGBZt8/s1600/DSC02066.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Several dishes stood out for the right reasons. Some scallops weren't cheap at around £6 each but the result was worth the expense (left). Delicately spiced and seasoned, swimming in a butter sauce, they were a great way to get us started. It was a similar story with the soft shell crab tempura, which for around £5 was great value and a typically crunchy, sweet, salty and greasy proposition (above right).<br />
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The wife tends to go crazy for a decent papaya salad when eating Thai food, something I am rarely enthused by since it is usually both too bitter and packed with nuts for me. In this case it was refreshing, cool and a great accompaniment to the food (left). Still too many nuts for me but the wife loved every mouthful. She remarked that the salad was very traditionally and typically Thai, with the sweetness coming from the peanuts.<br />
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In ordering our food we had thrown caution to the wind and dishes to the table were a procession at this point. Some 'off menu' beef with noodles was a delight which I had not been expecting at all. The meat was tender, salty, savoury and sitting in a throaty, rich broth. All the tiresome clichés I had been dismissing about Thai food began to drift away somewhere in amongst the table which was now becoming so full we could barely fit our own plates on it.<br />
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No English person's visit to a Thai restaurant is complete without either a curry or some noodles. Naturally we had both. The curry was a delicately-balanced, mild yet flavoursome bowl (right). This was a <i>Panaeng</i> curry which I had never heard of, but our friends in particular put paid to this with no time to stand on ceremony. The noodles were a fairly unadventurous chicken variety but were a nicely grounded plate around some of the headier flavours.<br />
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We ordered some <i>Pla Ma Kham</i> which was sea bass served with pineapple, vegetables and a spicy sauce (left). I was not so bothered with all the sides to the dish, just hugely impressed with the tender, moist flesh underneath. There's something so delightfully refined and pure about a fillet of Asian fish and this was a terrific example. It was another plate which sat well with the rest of the cavalcade of food we were eating.<br />
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Making sure we had enough meat, we ordered two dishes which had been sliced and grilled, then served with variations on spicy sauce. Both the chicken and the pork were delicious and earned us the dubious achievement of having eaten just about every animal on the menu. This was all being washed down with mango lassi for me, beer for one friend and Thai milk tea for the other and the wife.<br />
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This was a ridiculous exuberance of a night out but a great one. The meal was lots of fun and all the food was great. I can't say I am now a huge Thai food fan but this kind of experience is making me re-think my past criticisms. Thai Rice is a great place to spend a Friday evening with friends. If that's not a ringing endorsement of a restaurant, I don't know what is.<br />
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<a href="http://www.thairicelondon.com/">Thai Rice</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-82655477149934045802014-03-26T12:30:00.000+00:002014-03-26T12:30:02.879+00:00One Last Hurrah - Launceston Place: Kensington, Sunday 3rd February, 2013And so it comes to pass: my last review of Launceston Place. As with another long-standing favourite of mine, Le Vacherin, this is somewhere the wife and I have enjoyed in every way since <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/so-another-week-of-feasting-is-upon-us_17.html">I first went there</a> some years ago. To say that visit was a success would be stretching the truth somewhat, since excellent food was nearly ruined by lousy service, but here we are. We seem to eat here several times a year - any further reviews after this one would simply be overdoing it, particularly since the standard very rarely wavers.<br />
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This was a special visit, though. My father had been given retirement at the beginning of the year which was great news. He'd been wanting to retire for some time, a stalwart of the education system going as far back as teacher training college before moving into educational development and business management. As such, celebrating was in order. We'd got together as a family on the Friday night but the Sunday was the main event as far as we were concerned. The wife and I treated everyone to lunch in the chef's office at our favourite local place.<br />
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The chef's office is a room which comfortably sits 8-10 people adjoining the main kitchen. The booking process was uncomplicated, non-restrictive and generally an organisational joy which made the memories of miscommunication and bad service from years prior a distant one. The service and general attitude of staff at this place is up there with the best.<br />
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And your attitude needs to be at its best when you have a just-turned-two boy eating in the chef's office. Our nephew (who was in attendance with his mother) was the star of the show, as adorable toddlers tend to be. But with seven adults and one small boy, one's work is cut out. Our waitress and the support staff were excellent all day. The menu was impeccable as ever, delivering my nephew an expertly-judged roast chicken plate for his main course and some chocolate sorbet for dessert which his whispered "<i>wow</i>" summed up perfectly.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XlPu6nAgiYM/UzBx3w2iSfI/AAAAAAAABpI/TYJF6MSj1eQ/s1600/DSC02055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XlPu6nAgiYM/UzBx3w2iSfI/AAAAAAAABpI/TYJF6MSj1eQ/s1600/DSC02055.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The food, as ever, was near-faultless. It was predictably similar to the menu we'd sampled about <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/launceston-place-sunday-23rd-december.html">six weeks earlier</a> but it didn't diminish the event in any way. I stayed with the winter vegetable salad which had impressed me so in the previous visit, with others around the table suitably wowed (above left). The wife's roast scallops with pork belly were a similar triumph of perfect contrast and complement (above right.)<br />
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Given that it was Sunday, the wife and most of the rest of the gang couldn't resist the beef and Yorkshire pudding (left). As solid, classic and refined as ever, this is the sort of Sunday lunch rivalled only in other Michelin-Starred restaurants. The meat is always cooked to a perfect medium-rare turn, the potatoes a crisp, chunky and fluffy thumbs-up, the Yorkshires light and rich.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEha3v5sBqw/UzBx4UhbM9I/AAAAAAAABpc/f20cUUxt_AA/s1600/DSC02057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEha3v5sBqw/UzBx4UhbM9I/AAAAAAAABpc/f20cUUxt_AA/s1600/DSC02057.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>My father and I agreed fish was the way to go on the day, a choice we were delighted with. And how could we not be? Roasted hake with cauliflower, chicken oysters, pink fir apple potatoes and truffle was as heavenly as it sounds (right). The cauliflower had been charred and pureéd, adding creaminess, saltiness and earthy flavour to the dish. The truffle was subtle and glorious. The sauce and the chicken oysters were judged to a perfectly-balanced note, reminding me of the sheer excellence I had enjoyed at <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/remembering-classic-medlar-chelsea.html">Medlar</a> four months earlier. I was particularly excited to introduce my old man to pink firs. Since he is a huge fan of new potatoes, I'd been banging on about these to him for as long as I could remember and they acted as the perfect base for a perfect dish.<br />
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Desserts were academic at this point: we all knew they would be great and they were. Launceston Place's knack for taking simple dairy products and turning them into impressive puddings was again realised with some eye-watering flourishes. The English custard tart was a picture on a plate; rich vanilla custard set with apple slivers, fruit crumble and orange ice cream (left). Imagination grounded in realism leaving a stupendous result.<br />
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The chocolate mousse was precisely as excellent as it had been before and was enjoyed as it should be. I went for baked vanilla yoghurt with caramelised rhubarb at the bottom of the bowl, topped with yoghurt ice cream (right). Superb dessert done in a proper way. It was simultaneously sour and sweet, comforting and exciting. The meal was done. We were all satisfied.<br />
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Before you ask, I am not on some kind of commission here. I am not a sponsor of Launceston Place. I have no corporate ties with the restaurant and I write everything above, and in the past, based on my own opinion and experience. This may read like some doe-eyed eulogy and if it does; good. It is the last piece I'll write on the restaurant and it deserves all the praise I've given it because, above all else, this is a great restaurant. Happy retirement old boy. Happy sorbet young fella. Happy trails Launceston Place.<br />
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<a href="http://www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk/">Launceston Place</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-35397580292097624192014-03-25T14:00:00.000+00:002014-03-25T14:41:03.634+00:00The Jam Cupboard: Kensington, Monday 28th January, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
South Kensington is a strange area when it comes to eating out. On the main roads, your choices are limited to anonymous hotel ventures and gaudy, tourist-y places. On the side streets, the prices rocket, leaving one with little choice other than to wait for a special occasion.</div>
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This was no special occasion (and no side street restaurant) but some colleagues were in town so the wife and I joined two of them for a spot of dinner one dreary Monday evening. We were examining possibilities in the South Kensington area (where they were staying) and happened to notice a place called The Jam Cupboard on Toptable, which was running a 50% off deal. When I first started eating out frequently, 50% off food via Toptable was just about the only way I'd book a restaurant. Times have changed, often thanks to decent restaurants not being able to afford this luxury any more, but also with Toptable having been bought by the US site Opentable, which was a shame since Toptable was a much better site.</div>
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The Jam Cupboard is part of the Rydges Hotel in Kensington, on Gloucester Road. It's one of those places which seems so ineffectually part of the area you'd never think to check it out. But 50% off speaks loudly and suddenly a fun name in an unknown Kensington hotel became a lot more appealing.</div>
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The four of us tried an assortment of dishes and the general feeling for the evening was the place had done a good job. Nothing was bad, unpleasant or poorly-judged. It was, in just about every way, as good as one could hope for from a semi-modern, mostly empty unknown hotel restaurant in Kensington. I'm not one for atmosphere trumping the food wherever I eat, but this really was a muted evening. With poor food it would've been a washout.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8KZkWtGlWRk/UyjXpwiFgII/AAAAAAAABn4/TqeFZ1671lM/s1600/DSC02006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8KZkWtGlWRk/UyjXpwiFgII/AAAAAAAABn4/TqeFZ1671lM/s1600/DSC02006.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Starters were an interesting acid test for the place, since they were all of a simple enough construct to make any mistakes stand out unforgivably. They had a pumpkin risotto on the specials so I had to go for it. Happily, there was nothing to complain about here (left). The rice was cooked with just enough bite, the salad was better than just a garnish and the whole dish was a pleasant introduction to a hearty winter meal.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlRtpz2YOwk/UyjXq5Pg1ZI/AAAAAAAABoE/-fgz8REVQpg/s1600/DSC02010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlRtpz2YOwk/UyjXq5Pg1ZI/AAAAAAAABoE/-fgz8REVQpg/s1600/DSC02010.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife ordered the tagliatelle with plum tomatoes, basil and parmesan which was something of a strange one to me. It sounded like an attempt to deconstruct a <i>pomodoro </i>sauce; something which should never be attempted anywhere. In the event, it was properly-cooked pasta with soft tomato and a bold basil flavour (right). The most impressive facet of the dish was how fresh they had managed to make it. It wasn't fancy or elaborate but it worked. For that alone, I was impressed.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O2w8-FFB128/UyjYGVKIF9I/AAAAAAAABoY/GDGH2Wj24m8/s1600/DSC02013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O2w8-FFB128/UyjYGVKIF9I/AAAAAAAABoY/GDGH2Wj24m8/s1600/DSC02013.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bI2i5SoTJro/UyjYEsH9EKI/AAAAAAAABoQ/Yy7ZUgWul7Q/s1600/DSC02011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bI2i5SoTJro/UyjYEsH9EKI/AAAAAAAABoQ/Yy7ZUgWul7Q/s1600/DSC02011.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Main courses showed more of an effort to move away from standards done in strange ways and started reading like a serious restaurant. One of the party doesn't eat meat but does eat fish so a special of the day worked well: salmon with beans & salad (above left). Such a simple description may not do it justice but the fish was nicely cooked with some moisture and softness and the salad was a decent contrast to the soft beans underneath. Another in the party is absolutely a meat eater, so braised beef cheeks with garlic mash & broccoli was a great choice (above right). Another standard kind of idea but the execution is what counts and this was right on.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AI5K_UJsiUI/UyjYHTK0zzI/AAAAAAAABog/BHGhY2z_iVM/s1600/DSC02014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AI5K_UJsiUI/UyjYHTK0zzI/AAAAAAAABog/BHGhY2z_iVM/s1600/DSC02014.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife couldn't resist the sound of twice-cooked pork belly with apple sauce and a bean salad (left). Whilst the crackling on the belly wasn't quite to her liking, the meat certainly was. Delicious, soft and fatty as well-cooked belly pork should be, this was demolished unceremoniously along with the salad, which was where I felt she might have struggled. As well as good flavours, this dish showed an understanding of portion control and a necessary contrast between light and heavy.<br />
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I pushed the boat out with a sirloin steak and chips (right). Dishes like this are standard fare on most hotel menus and why not? It's the kind of convenience comfort food business people, tourists and serious eaters alike want to try and it is another case of just how well a restaurant is doing if they can get it right. In this case it was a happily enjoyable English standard, cooked fairly well, with crispy chips and watercress acting as standard yet tasty sides.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Oxa39oBOy6Y/UyjYi3fNpAI/AAAAAAAABow/YA8wsO9BUv8/s1600/DSC02018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Oxa39oBOy6Y/UyjYi3fNpAI/AAAAAAAABow/YA8wsO9BUv8/s1600/DSC02018.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife and I were in the mood for dessert (I'm not sure there's ever been a time we haven't) so we ordered the two puddings which made most sense to us having read the menu. I was feeling full after my two courses so I ordered the chocolate mousse with vanilla whipped cream and berry confit (left). It was all a bit smooth and soft - textural variation was missing, no doubt - but the mousse was rich, thick and it fit the bill impressively.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vf_VAQ3jr5I/UyjYiyZ9juI/AAAAAAAABo0/juali-uw82c/s1600/DSC02016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vf_VAQ3jr5I/UyjYiyZ9juI/AAAAAAAABo0/juali-uw82c/s1600/DSC02016.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife went for another English classic in sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream (right). Again, there was no fussing here and nothing was left uneaten. Puddings such as these are rarely astronomical; they either work or they don't. This one did and it was a fine way to cap what had been a surprisingly pleasant evening<br />
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Suddenly we had finished. A short walk round the corner saw my colleagues back to their hotel and the wife and I were left to reflect on an evening's work we hardly thought would have stuck in the memory at first. The ever-present question when eating half-off meals is would it have been worth the full price? I have to say I think it would have. It was not spectacular but for a hotel in Kensington, the prices were just about right. At 50% off food it was a steal.<br />
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I don't know if I'll be rushing back to the Jam Cupboard. I like the name, the location and the food (three things you wouldn't usually say about a Kensington hotel restaurant) but it isn't so spectacular as to detract from some of its local competition (notably <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/launceston-place-sunday-23rd-december.html">Launceston Place</a> and <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/01/genuine-belter-letranger-kensington.html">L'Etranger</a>). Throw 50% off food into the mix now and again and I'll be sure to go back some time, but in a part of London so forgotten of food and overwhelmed by grandeur, the Jam Cupboard is precisely what's needed: a small voice saying "eat here".<br />
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<a href="http://www.rydges.co.uk/eating-and-drinking/the-jam-cupboard-restaurant/">The Jam Cupboard</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-55848567226305607102014-03-19T13:00:00.000+00:002014-03-19T13:00:03.229+00:00The Palm Court at The Park Lane Hotel: Mayfair, Sunday 13th January, 2013Our first wedding anniversary was upon us and since this was such a momentous occasion, we had to celebrate with several meals, apparently. On the actual day (Monday), I booked us a dinner at Le Vacherin, about which <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/my-favourite-restaurant-le-vacherin.html">I would find it hard to write more</a>. On the Saturday, the wife surprised me with an out-of-town trip to <a href="http://www.thehandandflowers.co.uk/">The Hand & Flowers</a> in Marlow which we were both excited about, but failed to deliver.<br />
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That left the Sunday, which happily meant we could eat somewhere in London and I could review it. Given that we had a fairly extravagant dinner on the Saturday and another on the Monday, the Sunday was effectively some light relief with afternoon tea. We've sampled some excellent afternoon teas over the past few years (the outright best still being <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/afternoon-tea-at-dorchester-mayfair.html">The Dorchester</a>) so trying a new place is always exciting.<br />
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This time we opted for The Palm Court at the Park Lane Hotel which, for the most part, follows The Dorchester's method of making the lobby the place to be. It is every inch a luxury Mayfair hotel, with high ceilings, plenty of natural light, opulent décor and generally a well-furnished setting in which to take in some sandwiches and scones.<br />
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The standard tea menu costs £33 which is high enough to reasonably expect a better than average afternoon tea. Add to that they had just won the Tea Guild's Award of Excellence for 2013 and suddenly I was hoping for an experience to rival The Dorchester. In terms of setting, there is definitely something to be said for the grandiose Art Deco room at The Palm Court and the lighting in particular was quite amazing. However, I am one for comfort when it comes to eating an afternoon tea and The Dorchester's unique blend of relaxed, warm intimacy just edged it for me.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HH8olLxDsMQ/Ux-a8FgpEnI/AAAAAAAABm4/fWlXWRls9G8/s1600/DSC01926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HH8olLxDsMQ/Ux-a8FgpEnI/AAAAAAAABm4/fWlXWRls9G8/s1600/DSC01926.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The food itself is what really counts though. The description of the finger sandwiches certainly read well and as they were served, we were reasonably expectant (left). There were some hits and some misses here. The coronation smoked chicken with watercress on raisin bread was a resounding triumph; a sweet and juicy filling, framed imaginatively with the raisin bread. Equally, the roast beef with rocket and wasabi was carried off with little fault. The rest were less impressive though. Grated egg on carrot & herb bread was confusing, salmon on peso bread was unnecessary and the crab meat on brown bread was okay but far too dry.<br />
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This gets to the real problem with the sandwiches: they were all a bit dry and a bit underwhelming overall. Despite interesting and generally good combinations, if you're going to serve finger sandwiches which are starting to show signs of staleness, you're already losing the diner. These were not great sandwiches in the main, affected by some iffy presentation (at these prices, in this setting, I expect my sarnies to be ruler-straight cut) and some questionable freshness. What really sums it up is we didn't have any seconds.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XhTA6q6ChjQ/Uyg7BDXQnnI/AAAAAAAABnQ/GcNCkS81BpQ/s1600/2013-01-13-16-50-43_deco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XhTA6q6ChjQ/Uyg7BDXQnnI/AAAAAAAABnQ/GcNCkS81BpQ/s1600/2013-01-13-16-50-43_deco.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>The scones were next. Typically served with preserves and clotted cream, they were a pleasant step up from the sandwiches (right). I enjoyed these more than the wife, who said they were "pretty normal". I particularly enjoyed the fact they were nicely raised, meaning they were light and easy to cut, but still retained a bit of bite. The jams and cream were all of a standard where we took plenty more than was necessary which is something of a ringing endorsement. A definite improvement.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_S1smsH4Co/Ux-a8lY5D-I/AAAAAAAABm8/HAE3siykf-k/s1600/DSC01937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_S1smsH4Co/Ux-a8lY5D-I/AAAAAAAABm8/HAE3siykf-k/s1600/DSC01937.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Finally, pastries were brought to the table (left). Now I was initially impressed with the vibrant array of colours and shapes on show but I had one substantial fear: these had been rolled over on a trolley which had been on show in the dining room since we had arrived. I may not be a pastry chef but I know if you leave a variety of soft sponge cakes and slices out in the open for any length of time they aren't going to be in the best condition when they arrive at the table. This was a let-down because all the sponges - chocolate, lemon, mixed fruit - were essentially spoiled before we'd even eaten them. It didn't help that virtually all the icings and glazes were too gelatinous and thick also.<br />
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If you've read (or even skimmed) my review of afternoon tea at The Dorchester, you'll already know The Palm Court just isn't in the same league. It is a gorgeous room with big ideas but seemingly little knowledge on how to execute them. It was indeed a memorable weekend but, following the relative disappointment of England's only two-Michelin Starred pub, this was another downer. There is wonderful afternoon tea to be had in London, which means I'm unlikely to come back to The Palm Court at The Park Lane Hotel.<br />
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<a href="http://www.palmcourtlondon.co.uk/">The Palm Court</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-88300926199449278512014-03-11T18:00:00.000+00:002014-03-11T18:00:01.746+00:00Kitchen W8 - Kensington, Sunday January 6th, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's with a remorseful sigh that I publish this review some fourteen months late - a theme that's sure to recur over the course of 2014. However, 2012 is now accounted for, so if anything that's one of the monkeys off my back. Additionally, the wife and I find ourselves in a position that this year is unlikely to involve much eating out. Whilst this is sorrowfully indicative of the grown-up hard times we have hit, it does give me a chance (or an excuse) to drag out 2013's reviews across the next ten months.</div>
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The first weekend of last year presented a happy opportunity to take Sunday lunch at a place we had <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/kitchen-w8-kensington-saturday-march.html">thoroughly enjoyed</a> ten months earlier. As with so many respectable Michelin-Starred neighbourhood restaurants, the value on offer at Kitchen W8 is as appealing as somewhere like <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/launceston-place-sunday-23rd-december.html">Launceston Place</a>. Food of such a standard at £30 per person is something which cannot be ignored.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D2xCyglLuEI/UveWnqNAv0I/AAAAAAAABkw/mk5tQlvt2lk/s1600/DSC01848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D2xCyglLuEI/UveWnqNAv0I/AAAAAAAABkw/mk5tQlvt2lk/s1600/DSC01848.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We took a friend and the three of us surveyed the menu, with I certainly convinced the variation on show meant we'd be ordering nine dishes with no repetition. Typically, the wife and our friend instantly settled on the same starter to my dismay. That said, risotto of smoked eel & leek with a velouté of parsley sounded glorious (left). Despite this being a perfect winter Sunday starter, full of strong, confident winter flavours, it was remarkably fresh. The leek contrasted well with the salty smoked fish to produce a really interesting flavour combination. The mark of a truly excellent dish is often the distillation of complimenting flavours. This was certainly on the ball with the added bonus that I couldn't remember having had anything like it before.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E33v0VgB2lE/UveWoKLkHUI/AAAAAAAABk4/Vu1k1qYdBQc/s1600/DSC01847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E33v0VgB2lE/UveWoKLkHUI/AAAAAAAABk4/Vu1k1qYdBQc/s1600/DSC01847.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>I was left scratching my head as to the starter I should order, so I turned to our waitress for inspiration. The recommendation was the foie gras parfait (unsurprisingly with a £3 supplement) (right). Whilst I make no apologies for how much I adore the stuff, I am reaching the stage where I have had some of the greatest foie gras out there. As such, it becomes harder to find some which hits home as truly amazing. This was served with spiced jelly as a layer on top of the parfait, quince chutney for sharp acidity and some sourdough toast. All of it was well-made and tasted delicious but it was just a little run-of-the-mill, particularly for somewhere like Kitchen W8. Maybe I'm getting more demanding in my old age.</div>
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If my starter had seemed a little ordinary then my main course was a dish to excite the senses to the point of expectant delirium. Braised cheek and loin of pork with creamed potato, turnips, kale and prunes is a list that you get happier with the more you read of it (left). If the girls' starter had been an exciting flavour combination which was relatively new to me, this was an expert execution of tried and tested triumphs. The pork was a juicy, properly-cooked pink with the potatoes a delicious, thick base for the meat. The prunes added fruitiness and spice with the vegetables bulking out the plate in the most understated, elegant way.<br />
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The wife couldn't resist a Sunday lunch classic and chose the rib of Ayrshire beef with Yorkshire pudding (right). The beef was medium-rare and gloriously meaty as it should be. The pudding was flamboyantly large and puffy which is always a treat. It was a filling dish but it retained enough rustic charm and genuine quality to be worthwhile. The vegetables on the side reminded me that, when you can get a Sunday lunch like this as part of a £30 menu, lunching at pubs becomes increasingly unappealing.<br />
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Our friend was in the mood for more fish and chose the bream fillet served atop a bed of Shetland mussel & brown shrimp chowder (left). This was possibly a little too summery given the season for my tastes but, taken as a dish in isolation, it was lovely. The fish had properly crispy skin and was moist throughout. The chowder was creamy and rich but I would have felt a little unsatisfied had I ordered it. However, as a lighter, more refreshing option, it certainly hit the mark.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NyFqtRyDUrI/UxkEsUxYjlI/AAAAAAAABmk/JvqFhzTI5mQ/s1600/DSC01854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NyFqtRyDUrI/UxkEsUxYjlI/AAAAAAAABmk/JvqFhzTI5mQ/s1600/DSC01854.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>Our friend wanted to stick with the light choices throughout and her choice of blood orange sorbet for dessert certainly fit the bill (right). Sorbet is something I believe belongs on a dish as a dressing, garnish or supporting act. That said, this was intensely flavoursome: zesty, sharp and not at all watery. It wasn't something I would order since I like my desserts rich and waistline-threateningly full of calories, but the fragrance and strength in this were impressive for sure.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O81y1r5EMHo/UxkEsXW3ubI/AAAAAAAABmc/zK7_KIUXwZk/s1600/DSC01852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O81y1r5EMHo/UxkEsXW3ubI/AAAAAAAABmc/zK7_KIUXwZk/s1600/DSC01852.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife went for another classic for her dessert: rhubarb crumble (left). I always enjoy sampling such staples in good restaurants because there is nowhere to hide with it. In this case, as they have done before, they got it just right. The rhubarb was sweet, tart and soft whilst the crumble was an unpretentious, crunchy and soft underneath topping. That's all you need to know about this dish. It was a proper crumble with proper vanilla ice cream and it was properly lovely. Whilst that might sound like a cop-out, how many crumbles out there don't hit those standards?<br />
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My dessert leapt off the page and I was again excited just by reading about it: egg custard tart with medjool dates and Clementine (right). This was a case where the fairly simple description didn't do the actual dish justice. The Clementine portion of the dish was some acidic ice cream (not a sorbet, which was the right call), adding texture and temperature contrasts. The date component was a purée, providing smoothness and a richness which contrasted beautifully with the tart. The pastry was firm but crumbly, the filling exactly a mixture of subtle spicing and comforting custard. It was precisely the sort of dish one would go to Kitchen W8 to eat.<br />
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If any restaurant is worth its place in London's upper echelons, it has to be able to deliver on the simple things whilst simultaneously opening the eyes of its patrons. Exciting food in a simple way or simple food in an exciting way... either works but the fact is there aren't a huge number of restaurants out there able to do it. Kitchen W8 is a restaurant vital to London's upper-middle tier of restaurants. It may never win a second star. I <i>hope</i> it never wins a second star. They should just keep doing what they do.<br />
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Following this visit, Kitchen W8 qualified as a restaurant eligible to enter my list of top five restaurants in London. (The only criteria is that one has to have been somewhere more than once to qualify as a 'favourite'.) It will be no surprise at this point to learn it has remained in the top five ever since. Click the link below and check out their more up-to-date menus: there will be something in there for you. It is intelligent, sentient, enjoyable food. It is food everyone should be eating as often as possible. It is the kind of restaurant that should be full every night of the week. I just hope I can get a table when I next want to go.<br />
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<a href="http://www.kitchenw8.com/">Kitchen W8</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-24432480610271971862014-03-05T08:30:00.000+00:002014-04-08T13:19:30.162+01:00A Walk Around London: Pizza East & Imperial China - Shoreditch & Chinatown, Friday December 28th, 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There's nothing like showing off the city you live in. I'm a very proud Londoner and when I have friends in town it's usually an excuse to eat somewhere and enjoy a day out and about. A colleague from France (but a native Londoner) was visiting and had brought her children with her. The order of the day was to show them around a few parts of London they were less familiar with and generally get some fresh air to shake off the collective post-Christmas food hangover.</div>
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That curing a food hangover should involve both lunch and dinner might sound surprising, but hair of the dog and all that... The first part of the day was spent walking around east London, ducking in and out of vintage clothing shops, interesting side roads and the almost real-time regeneration of the east end. Lunch time hit us and it was decided we should grab a pizza. I suggested <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/east-end-trend-pizza-east-st-john-bread.html">Pizza East</a> since it was enjoyable on first visit and it was more interesting than Pizza Express.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-39BeFOKuE0Q/UvbQ33UvWII/AAAAAAAABjw/CNkN_bHvnnQ/s1600/DSC01837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-39BeFOKuE0Q/UvbQ33UvWII/AAAAAAAABjw/CNkN_bHvnnQ/s1600/DSC01837.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The variety on the Pizza East menu is always a pleasant balance between exotic and familiar. There's never too much choice but there is just enough to make the first read through the card an enjoyable debate. I decided to push the boat out with a pizza and a side dish. The main event was topped with squash, pancetta, parmesan and <i>stracchino</i> cheese (left). This was a hearty, thick and creamy pizza. One perfect for a winter's day walk around London. The <i>stracchino</i>, a cow's milk cheese I had not eaten previously, contributed the creaminess without overwhelming the base and flavour elsewhere. The parmesan's sharp acidic notes gave some zip to the whole thing whilst the meat and the squash sat perfectly as the main flavours: salty, savoury and deliciously soft.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEEhyJDAduI/UvbQ5h5uyFI/AAAAAAAABkA/2RG0dssffQk/s1600/DSC01839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEEhyJDAduI/UvbQ5h5uyFI/AAAAAAAABkA/2RG0dssffQk/s1600/DSC01839.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>My side dish was cauliflower cheese (right). Given that I was eating a cheesy pizza it seemed a little indulgent but the fact that it was also still technically the Christmas season meant I had impunity to order all the dairy I wanted. The dish itself was a delightful mixture of both white and green cauliflower, both of which were perfectly cooked. The different types of vegetable lent a necessary textural variation to the dish and the overall effect was wonderful. Another dish perfect for a winter afternoon.<br />
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After more walking, taking us up to St Paul's by the time the day was drawing in, the wife came to meet us and we headed to Chinatown for a light supper. The lure of <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/imperial-china-chinatown-sunday-april.html">Imperial China</a> was too strong to ignore and we found ourselves at a typically tasteful round table upstairs wondering what would be acceptable to order given our rather heavy lunch.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-17vjJJJZeFo/UvbRVQSRyRI/AAAAAAAABkI/FIdVW_o9OQM/s1600/DSC01840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-17vjJJJZeFo/UvbRVQSRyRI/AAAAAAAABkI/FIdVW_o9OQM/s1600/DSC01840.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>In the event, we went for a sample of dim sum dishes which started with an assortment of dumplings (left). All steamed but containing different fillings, these were a lovely way to start. All the fillings, from scallops to pork to mushrooms, were excellent. The soft, supple dumpling casings were steamed to a smooth texture which meant the whole tray was devoured in minutes.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cw291VDbLLI/UvbRVxAtxsI/AAAAAAAABkQ/MUPc6OZxXz8/s1600/DSC01841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cw291VDbLLI/UvbRVxAtxsI/AAAAAAAABkQ/MUPc6OZxXz8/s1600/DSC01841.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We also ordered soft-shell crab (right). This was clasically deep-fried to crispy, greasy satisfaction. Not at all heavy or cloying, the meat was soft and sweet with a hint of saltiness to bring home the sea flavour. A dish like this is so pleasurable by its very nature that it becomes easy to dismiss it as a constant winner. However, Imperial China is the kind of place where it starts to become something a little more special than the closest one gets to Chinese fish 'n chips.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_yat4vZiSBo/UvbRXH_SLrI/AAAAAAAABkY/mlB5H3ZEcNw/s1600/DSC01842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_yat4vZiSBo/UvbRXH_SLrI/AAAAAAAABkY/mlB5H3ZEcNw/s1600/DSC01842.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Our final main dish was a plate of pork <i>gyoza</i> (left). These were properly crisp, chewy and slightly soft dumplings which had been pan-fried to a perfect bite. With soy sauce on the side, these didn't last long and the fact that we'd had pizza for lunch suddenly seemed a distant memory.<br />
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Imperial China was a lovely way to finish off a busy, bustling day. Two good meals at two dependable restaurants combined with a vigorous stroll around parts of the east and central areas of town made it one to remember. There really isn't anywhere quite like London and restaurants are such an important part of that.<br />
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<a href="http://www.pizzaeast.com/shoreditch">Pizza East</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.imperialchina-london.com/">Imperial China</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-22915106022180965092014-03-04T08:00:00.000+00:002014-09-07T16:18:28.567+01:00Infamy vs. Anonymity: Trattoria Sorrento & Carluccio's - Teddington, 24th & 27th December, 2012Some time ago, I wrote <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/trattoria-sorrento-teddington-december.html">this piece</a> on a meal at a former favourite childhood haunt gone wrong. It was a meal that was poor but saddening at the same time. I have subsequently taken a lot of flak for this (read the comments) and it has become my most-read piece, which is somewhat unfortunate. I am not someone who wants to dismiss restaurants or indeed, to be seen as some internet hero, ragging on anywhere which is not fancy or ranked highly in the public eye.<br />
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What I am is honest. I would never contrive to give somewhere a pre-conceived review or stick the knife in for the sake of it. That meal at Sorrento was bad. It was bad cooking, bad service and a real disappointment because I really <i>wanted</i> to enjoy it. One year on, another Christmas Eve, the family booked a table and I was in the mood to be proved wrong.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qCgNhrNm2eg/UvaJrR1_GMI/AAAAAAAABhg/UJtvpzPbGr4/s1600/DSC01800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qCgNhrNm2eg/UvaJrR1_GMI/AAAAAAAABhg/UJtvpzPbGr4/s1600/DSC01800.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Where last time I had been pretty unimpressed with a classic of yesteryear, I again re-approached another dish I used to enjoy : king prawns with garlic (left). Now I have to say that these were not terrible. Which sounds awfully negative but the memories of 2011 still weighed heavily. They weren't the best: slightly dry and not excessively tender, but the sauce was still the sumptuous sweet and acidic drizzle it used to be. So far, better than before with no question.<br />
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Around the table, things progressed as expected, with the family enjoying what they were served - it may be just me of course - and some of it was eye-catching. My brother tried a steak with tomato sauce which I found very dry and not so impressive. My father indulged in a stunning-looking double veal chop which turned out to be an onslaught of meat without much discernible merit. Any meat on the bone should be moist and tender - this was not.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7yGpel7PP-s/UvaJr9doRQI/AAAAAAAABho/twTuAmc3XRI/s1600/DSC01804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7yGpel7PP-s/UvaJr9doRQI/AAAAAAAABho/twTuAmc3XRI/s1600/DSC01804.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>I went for <i>Saltimbocca </i>for my main course. Veal with prosciutto and sage, white wine butter sauce...life doesn't really get better when it's done well. In this case, I didn't quite know what to make of the dish presented to me (right). The veal had been flattened so aggressively there was little of anything to actually taste. Tomato sauce was a mistake too. Why one would overwhelm an already part-destroyed dish, I couldn't say. I was bored by the third mouthful.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8wpRaPQ9C2M/UvaKCv7CzAI/AAAAAAAABh4/bWRvkgv_oYM/s1600/DSC01806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8wpRaPQ9C2M/UvaKCv7CzAI/AAAAAAAABh4/bWRvkgv_oYM/s1600/DSC01806.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>I tried some of the wife's chicken with white wine mushroom sauce and again I couldn't really see what they were going for (left). Dry, flat meat swamped in an over-rich sauce was a waste of everyone's time. Whereas the infamous visit of the year before had been a saddening, chastening experience, this was turning into one of perturbed, aggravated resignation. I started to feel that horrible feeling of just wanting to leave when you're supposed to be enjoying yourself.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZ1Pmjola18/UvaKD4MZhbI/AAAAAAAABiA/1tHsowex4QY/s1600/DSC01808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZ1Pmjola18/UvaKD4MZhbI/AAAAAAAABiA/1tHsowex4QY/s1600/DSC01808.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Puddings came and went but barely registered. We tried panna cotta, one of the wife's favourites, but the overly-gelatinous slab of cream was beyond help, even when covered in fresh fruit (right). I was moodily resigned at this point, having hoped for something approaching passable and a redemption of sorts but I was left wanting for the second Christmas Eve in a row. The service had been laughable as last time as well, repeatedly being invasively rapped on the shoulder when I was asked to make an order. Maybe they recognised me after my first review.<br />
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A few nights later, my brother, my sister-in-law, the wife and I went a little further down the road to try a new chain restaurant location at the other end of the high street. I wrote <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/carluccios.html">this piece</a> some time back about how Carluccio's is one of my favourite chain restaurants to visit because, more often than not, they get the simple things right. In fact, they can usually be depended on to hit all the notes that Sorrento had so squarely failed to.<br />
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We went for a quick dinner but in my mind this was going to be an interesting comparison between the critique-affirming nonsense we'd endured a few days prior. And here is the unsurprising conclusion: Carluccio's was better in almost every way. Delivering enjoyable food, straightforward service and okay prices, this is <i>precisely </i>what I am looking for in my local Italian restaurant.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLAprWwJseM/UvaKpMFZf-I/AAAAAAAABiQ/Gx0WJcngeCQ/s1600/DSC01821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLAprWwJseM/UvaKpMFZf-I/AAAAAAAABiQ/Gx0WJcngeCQ/s1600/DSC01821.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Nothing was put on the table which resulted in head-in-hands abjection, nothing left a bad taste in the mouth (literally or figuratively) and it was a pleasant meal for four. A particular highlight was the crisp calamari to start (left). Served on brown paper, cooked properly with a slight resistance but soft, crunchy and with the right amount of sheen, this is food I can get on with.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RW--Z8bSDlY/UvaKp3auDrI/AAAAAAAABic/P97H1VWAxJM/s1600/DSC01820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RW--Z8bSDlY/UvaKp3auDrI/AAAAAAAABic/P97H1VWAxJM/s1600/DSC01820.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Something as simple as a salad is a great barometer of where an Italian place is standing and Carluccio's got it right. Rocket, ham, tomatoes and mozzarella is easy enough but can also so easily go wrong (right). A simple starter made for sharing is a far cry from playing it safe and this was a nicely inclusive, rustic plate for the table.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BM0ZfwjlyGs/UvaLCVpi-dI/AAAAAAAABis/S95B5vEiqDM/s1600/DSC01828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BM0ZfwjlyGs/UvaLCVpi-dI/AAAAAAAABis/S95B5vEiqDM/s1600/DSC01828.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The evening continued on the same theme. Linguine pasta was just about right - a mixture of cubed tomato, white wine sauce and well-prepared seafood (left). It was just simple, easily-produced but enjoyable food. Surely every neighbourhood Italian restaurant should be aiming for this sort of thing?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0ph_dL_N2qY/UvaLT8R7_1I/AAAAAAAABjA/Kp4XS9-ROWM/s1600/DSC01831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0ph_dL_N2qY/UvaLT8R7_1I/AAAAAAAABjA/Kp4XS9-ROWM/s1600/DSC01831.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Desserts were a general triumph, with the wife's panna cotta being well-made but too full of rum for her liking (right). Fortunately, there were ample alternatives in the form of a proper chocolate fondant and a decent lemon tart (below left). And this really summed it up: everything we ordered was good. It sounds basic enough but it really does make a difference when the food you are eating is properly put together and served. Sorrento should take note of basic operational imperatives like this.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4PM32JIM1_8/UvaLC2cO9LI/AAAAAAAABi0/bIpyFCERDeQ/s1600/DSC01829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4PM32JIM1_8/UvaLC2cO9LI/AAAAAAAABi0/bIpyFCERDeQ/s1600/DSC01829.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>When I wrote my piece on the 2011 visit to Sorrento, I was beset by guilt, a doe-eyed longing for my youth and a nostalgic wish for them to learn from their mistakes and start producing memorable food for the right reasons. Then all the criticism started coming in and my stance hardened: I'm not making stuff up or looking at things with some cock-eyed pretence. This time, I hoped it would be better and - despite some improvement - it was still a poor meal.<br />
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And this is the essence of what my article title is about: do I embrace the infamy of saying I was wrong about Sorrento or do I go for the comfortable anonymity of nailing my colours to the mast of a vast chain restaurant which, in fairness, I have lauded previously. Well, as much as it would've hurt a couple of years ago to say: Carluccio's is better. Significantly better. When before I would've felt slightly bad telling people to avoid a neighbourhood institution in favour of a chain, now I feel vindicated. Bring on the backlash. Bring on the negativity. If anonymity is my choice I'm going down swinging.Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-66909693814312164142014-02-09T09:00:00.000+00:002014-02-09T14:48:57.055+00:00Launceston Place: Kensington, Sunday 23rd December, 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The wife and I have many food traditions, some of which fall around winter. There's the early winter group meal, the home-cooked one with just the two of us, the big celebratory family efforts over the holidays and there usually is a meal for two at a restaurant just around finishing for the year. The wife tends never to have a long Christmas break, given that she works in retail. I do get the week off work though, which is always appreciated and gives a nice 'end of term' feeling to mid-December.</div>
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Usually we tend to vary between something rather extravagant and something more modest depending on how pre-Christmas spending has gone, but 2012 was a middle ground to galvanize our appetites in the best way. Sunday lunch at Launceston Place is just about the best Michelin-Starred deal in terms of both value and consistency in London. Three courses for around £30 is nothing to sniff at and the food is almost always worth it.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kCCcqFlTM80/UuhRQBUCGAI/AAAAAAAABeQ/bNtXKfTU1h8/s1600/DSC01779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kCCcqFlTM80/UuhRQBUCGAI/AAAAAAAABeQ/bNtXKfTU1h8/s1600/DSC01779.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>To start things off they gave us salted cod bon-bons and some choux pastry buns filled with a blue cheese bechamel sauce (left). As far as canapé morsels go, these are just right in terms of being simple and comforting, yet bringing a depth of flavour which make one pause to savour as they are scarfed down. Bread and butter, as always, is something I ate dangerous amounts of before menus were even on the table.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J3NXM3EB1Ks/UuhRok3agpI/AAAAAAAABe0/5LrxR7KRE8o/s1600/DSC01786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J3NXM3EB1Ks/UuhRok3agpI/AAAAAAAABe0/5LrxR7KRE8o/s1600/DSC01786.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Since Launceston Place got its Michelin Star, it has been a generally great place to eat. The one thing I really miss, though, is their amazing starter of poached duck egg with truffles on toast. Whilst that now appears to be a fond memory, they often do throw an egg dish on their starter card these days which the wife ordered (right). Slow-cooked duck egg served in cep cappucino (mushroom soup to you and me) with <i>lardo</i> of Pata Negra pork (ham fat to you and me) and white beans was a winner. The salty, smooth white fat combined with the delicious egg to provide a gorgeous classic combination. The beans added body and texture while the ceps were a solid and earthy base.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5R5gjvzjOCQ/UuhRooBCggI/AAAAAAAABew/Crkq8YdK82A/s1600/DSC01787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5R5gjvzjOCQ/UuhRooBCggI/AAAAAAAABew/Crkq8YdK82A/s1600/DSC01787.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>My starter was something which appealed in terms of the content if not the initial description. An autumn vegetable salad is not something I would usually order, but when the ingredients include pickled carrots, truffled cream cheese and beetroot, I was convinced (left). The carrot and beetroot were both perfectly flavoursome, salty and sweet. There was pickling, salt-baking and some simple cooking in there, which provided a contrast of textures and subtle differences in taste between the main ingredients. The honey-mustard dressing, gentle leaves and truffle cheese running through the dish were perfectly-judged and exceptional support to finish off what was an unexpectedly delicious starter.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w1BJHXSH7MM/UuhR_UG9LAI/AAAAAAAABfA/VWdDh_pj42g/s1600/DSC01790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w1BJHXSH7MM/UuhR_UG9LAI/AAAAAAAABfA/VWdDh_pj42g/s1600/DSC01790.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>One of the joys of Launceston Place is that they can take something seemingly luxurious and give it a very low-lit, comfortable feel. "Pan fried pigeon" on a menu is usually something I would assume to be quite upmarket and pricey but here it becomes more a plate of Sunday lunch which suits anybody (right). Nicely served pink and very moist, the soft shallots were a good dressing to add to the green beans and garlic mash. Whilst it wasn't spectacular, it was a pleasant and warming dish.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tLUIwLdkwgU/UuhSBPg0hGI/AAAAAAAABfI/OKGIyhasMd0/s1600/DSC01794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tLUIwLdkwgU/UuhSBPg0hGI/AAAAAAAABfI/OKGIyhasMd0/s1600/DSC01794.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>A roast on a Sunday is a cliché I am delighted to indulge in as often as possible. There is something about proper roast chicken that makes me very happy and this was an interesting take on it (left). In lieu of a proper and substantial gravy (which I would usually insist on), mushroom purée was a thick, creamy and perfectly complementary alternative. Potatoes flavoured with Douglas fir were soft and rich, whilst crispness came from the chicken skin and greenness came from brussels sprout leaves.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sFl5KG_RDL8/UuhSBHLhAcI/AAAAAAAABfM/57hlHskPN4g/s1600/DSC01795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sFl5KG_RDL8/UuhSBHLhAcI/AAAAAAAABfM/57hlHskPN4g/s1600/DSC01795.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The wife picked a dessert that had been put together with such obvious appeal it was either going to be a total bust or as good as it sounded. 70% dark chocolate mousse with poached pear, pastry, salted caramel and milk ice cream was happily as great as it should have been (right). The mousse was thick yet light, the caramel tempering it with a savoury hint. The pear added a subtle, fruity note with the glorious creaminess coming from the ice cream.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jJzdmK5mH-c/UuhSLQbaRsI/AAAAAAAABfY/HAvS5gzWLYY/s1600/DSC01797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jJzdmK5mH-c/UuhSLQbaRsI/AAAAAAAABfY/HAvS5gzWLYY/s1600/DSC01797.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>My dessert was totally fitting coming just before Christmas: winter fruit strudel with cinnamon ice cream (left). It was something of a risk since the description was rather vague, but every bite into the soft pastry was reminiscent of fragrant spiced fruit associated with the festive season. Alternately sweet and tart, the citrus fruit and rind was an interesting yet familiar flavour, served in a creative and appealing way. It was a taste of Christmas just as the working year ended.<br />
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Whilst Launceston Place may be phoning it in slightly with some of their menu construction for Sunday lunchtime, the execution and quality is consistent and satisfying. The dishes justify the reasonable value, the venue is pleasant, the staff are on point; it's a great weekend meal. There's a reason the wife and I have been going back to Launceston Place so much in the last few years: it's a lovely restaurant which bears re-visiting time and again. If you haven't eaten here, find a free Sunday afternoon as soon as you can.<br />
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<a href="http://www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk/">Launceston Place</a></div>
Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-54797589027163358232014-01-29T09:00:00.000+00:002014-01-29T09:00:04.942+00:00"High Society!" - Zuma: Knightsbridge, Saturday 22nd December, 2012High society is a funny thing. Especially if you are a fan of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgsLt505m7Q">Ry Doon</a> as I am. If you believe the Boston comedian, there ain't much to being in the upper echelons of class anywhere. In London, it's a bit more complicated than courting pigeons' company.<br />
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Whilst the very top end of high society in London is private members' clubs, exclusive boutiques and money spent on frivolities faster than most of us earn it, celebrity high society is that little bit more within the reach of us mere mortals. A few years ago the wife and I got a taste of the London celebrity diet by dining at <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/at-celebrity-hangout-nobu-mayfair-23rd.html">Nobu</a>, which neither of us particularly enjoyed.<br />
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Zuma is an entirely similar proposition to Nobu in that it is in a trendy part of town, adored by the moneyed masses and generally considered to be rather good. It's hidden away in the back streets between Brompton Road and Kensington Road, making it hard enough to find that it's exclusive and suitably trendy. I was hurried to Zuma by the wife, who was joining some friends, one of whom's mother had come to visit London. Given the short notice I had to get presentable and get out of the house, I was a little late.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kf0fO-XLsU/Usm78VHHRBI/AAAAAAAABdY/EK7NsJecPJw/s1600/2012-12-22-19-57-37_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kf0fO-XLsU/Usm78VHHRBI/AAAAAAAABdY/EK7NsJecPJw/s200/2012-12-22-19-57-37_photo.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>Five of us ate during the evening but by the time I arrived, cold seafood was at the table already. The sashimi was extravagantly served on a bowl of ice and if the effect was to wow us in some vacuous, vaguely high society sort of way, it failed (left). What it did do was impress us with sheer freshness, a mixture of crisp coolness and smooth silken fish flesh and quality that just can't be ignored. Some of the best I've eaten without question.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MXLUioOIzho/Usm8Ac59-BI/AAAAAAAABdg/RC7zLbnQGjE/s1600/2012-12-22-19-59-28_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MXLUioOIzho/Usm8Ac59-BI/AAAAAAAABdg/RC7zLbnQGjE/s200/2012-12-22-19-59-28_photo.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>The sushi was a similar story (right). My personal pick was the eel, leaving sweet, rich fishy saltiness on the palate, a bolder flavour than the salmon and the <i>uni</i> (sea urchin). That said, I am still no sushi buff so I was pleased enough. Again, this was food at the very top end of my experience.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1uG5ebZDRk/Usm8Fe9VlnI/AAAAAAAABdw/WJENhmiTqMk/s1600/2012-12-22-20-28-19_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1uG5ebZDRk/Usm8Fe9VlnI/AAAAAAAABdw/WJENhmiTqMk/s200/2012-12-22-20-28-19_photo.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>We also ordered a dish which the place is famous for (so I was told). Seared scallops with <i>uni</i> and black sesame did not appeal much to me since it sounded like a waste of perfectly good scallops. However, the seafood itself was something else (left). It was honestly like nothing I have tasted before. Sweet, salty topping on lightly cooked scallops is nothing to sniff at, especially when they are cooked so well.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mm6nCNVFOTg/Usm8Hcv5HPI/AAAAAAAABd4/0AErUzPN0tc/s1600/2012-12-22-20-29-00_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mm6nCNVFOTg/Usm8Hcv5HPI/AAAAAAAABd4/0AErUzPN0tc/s200/2012-12-22-20-29-00_photo.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>No visit to a Japanese restaurant is complete without some tempura (right). In this case, it was predictably sweet, fresh, crispy and expertly-cooked. One thing I cannot abide is under-cooked vegetables inside decent batter. It seems to be an ever more common occurrence with simple Japanese food and I was pleased that somewhere pulling the full-pocketed punters in could still get the basics right.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LHkWI60K1Z8/Usm8Hm_PReI/AAAAAAAABd8/NS8aKkbOVP0/s1600/2012-12-22-20-30-23_photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LHkWI60K1Z8/Usm8Hm_PReI/AAAAAAAABd8/NS8aKkbOVP0/s200/2012-12-22-20-30-23_photo.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a>The wife was delighted with the final order of the evening: some wagyu beef (left). This was a prime cut of the world famous Japanese meat served with a simple citrus sauce and some spicy oil. In reality, all that was needed was a little seasoning because the beef was cooked perfectly and the texture was delightfully soft and subtle. For some of the most expensive beef I have eaten it was not quite the best but not far off. It was certainly a very easy eat; a very tender and lean piece of meat.<br />
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As a meal out, it was certainly one of the more high society events I enjoyed in 2012 and one of the more memorable to boot. One thing I can say about Zuma is that it is not cheap. These are Nobu prices alright and we were very lucky in this case that our generous hosts paid the bill. It was priced more or less how an extremely top-end Knightsbridge Japanese restaurant should be, including a 15% service charge on top.<br />
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But, if you have the spare money, Zuma is definitely worth a visit. Certainly the best high-end Japanese food I have eaten and somewhere which demands the attention of normal diners as well as the high society celebrity culture it is most recognisable with. And it's much better than Nobu.<br />
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<a href="http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma-landing/london/en/welcome">Zuma</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-30054990542263869282014-01-07T08:00:00.000+00:002014-01-07T08:00:07.313+00:00A Tradition is Born: Hereford Road - Bayswater, Sunday 2nd December, 2012Winter time has come to mean a big meal with friends. What started in the <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/st-john-smithfield-saturday-2nd-october.html">autumn of 2010</a> and continued in the <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/warm-welcome-home-st-john-bread-wine.html">winter of 2011</a> has thrived. Last year, it seemed a given that a large group outing to an English restaurant was inevitable and it was equally inevitable that I would organise it. I had earmarked <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/hereford-road-bayswater-tuesday.html">Hereford Road</a> as a potential destination as soon as the planning began. It had twice proved its worth as a decent place for six, so doubling that number ought to have been a possible winner.<br />
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As with any large group meal, a number of late cancellations and forgetful excuses came out before the event, but 12 of us made it to the table and I have to say that getting this event sorted was a wonderfully straightforward process. There was no protracted discussion, no outlandish deposit, no reduction in the menu: we basically got the full a la carte for 12 people for Sunday lunch in December. Not since <a href="http://ootfp.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/home-of-social-eating-joe-allen-covent.html">Joe Allen</a> have I had such an easy ride in booking a big Christmas table.<br />
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The menu itself read exactly as a classic British restaurant's should do: basic, simple combinations with a premise to exact them in a precise and satisfying way. There was enough choice to go around the table and, as ever, the prices were remarkably reasonable. I am not going to list every dish which was eaten and I certainly did not eat everything on the table, but - to business.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eLAtV-ywE7E/UsCNiLRjqfI/AAAAAAAABcU/1VAOuuSKfJ4/s1600/DSC01756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eLAtV-ywE7E/UsCNiLRjqfI/AAAAAAAABcU/1VAOuuSKfJ4/s200/DSC01756.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The starters were - at least in my area of the table - excellent. In typical uncomplicated and classic fashion, they delivered on every level. The seafood on show was seriously excellent. Our waiter mentioned that there was only one remaining portion of razor clams for the lunch service which the wife nearly leapt out of her seat at (left). These were impeccably fresh with a slight resistance so as to be moderately chewy but holding a delightfully creamy seafood taste. The accompaniments were nearly imperceptible outside of some thyme which gave a beautiful finish to the plate.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k26_ALJKqc/UsCNguJOx7I/AAAAAAAABcI/CcmasQ2LJyw/s1600/DSC01761.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2k26_ALJKqc/UsCNguJOx7I/AAAAAAAABcI/CcmasQ2LJyw/s200/DSC01761.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iD03l69IQWo/UsCNhzTj0tI/AAAAAAAABcQ/tytbxKFH0CM/s1600/DSC01760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iD03l69IQWo/UsCNhzTj0tI/AAAAAAAABcQ/tytbxKFH0CM/s200/DSC01760.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Continuing on the fish theme, some mackerel with potato salad and horseradish was another triumph of simplicity (right). In slicing the fish in half, the portion appealed as something a little different yet totally genuine and very fresh. The Jerusalem artichoke salad was also excellent, combining the robust, soft taste of the main ingredient with some well-seasoned leaves and dressing (above left).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SPz50x03vhE/UsCN4ewW-4I/AAAAAAAABck/VXEEGJ2Cea8/s1600/DSC01763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SPz50x03vhE/UsCN4ewW-4I/AAAAAAAABck/VXEEGJ2Cea8/s200/DSC01763.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>Further down the table, the wife procured me a smidgen of some fish roe on toast (right). This was something I only had a mouthful of, but my friends laughed as my eyes were wide with surprise after tasting it. Buttery, rich, almost sweet and enjoyably meaty, this was food to impress to the point of amusing facial expressions.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMdAjD8Hnxg/UsCN4bBRGcI/AAAAAAAABcg/6SIN_IyzlfE/s1600/DSC01764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMdAjD8Hnxg/UsCN4bBRGcI/AAAAAAAABcg/6SIN_IyzlfE/s200/DSC01764.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>My starter of quail and aioli was just about as great as it sounds, with mixed leaves on the side and half a lemon to season (left). No fuss, no frills, just expertly-cooked bird with potent garlic mayonnaise is about as perfect as you can get for a simple starter. We gnawed at the bones to extract the last of the salty, moist flesh.<br />
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After the feeding frenzy of the starters - we had waited quite a long time for certain guests to arrive - main courses arrived and we were all a little more reserved and dignified. The main courses read like a dream; a mixture of reassuring comfort foods and slightly upmarket restaurant ventures you'd never cook at home. Two of these - partridge and guinea fowl for two - were enjoyed at various points of the table. I tried a bit of the guinea fowl and it was nicely gamy, rich and interestingly served with a fennel salad. The partridge took some flak for having shot in it but that is a risk you run when ordering fresh game. Generally though, it was a success of well-cooked meat at the end of the game season.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-psYySxAgqMw/UsCOE1BxfsI/AAAAAAAABcw/qtkGNvJkSNk/s1600/DSC01766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-psYySxAgqMw/UsCOE1BxfsI/AAAAAAAABcw/qtkGNvJkSNk/s200/DSC01766.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>A few around me went for the roast beef and the portion was as down-to-earth as one tends to get at Hereford Road (right). Never too over-imposing or excessive, the roast vegetables, mid-rare beef and gravy were an enjoyable balance of Sunday lunch on a plate.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CP4ZszTEeJM/UsCOIfNB-ZI/AAAAAAAABdA/GJh65m3zn6M/s1600/DSC01767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CP4ZszTEeJM/UsCOIfNB-ZI/AAAAAAAABdA/GJh65m3zn6M/s200/DSC01767.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The menu had advertised pork belly but, as with the razor clams earlier, they had run out. However, myself and a friend were clued-in and fortunate enough to get the last of the modified dish of pork chop with mash, red cabbage and apple sauce (left). I am not usually a fan of chops but this was something different entirely. A well-sized, juicy and exceptionally flavoursome piece of meat, properly coated in fat...it hit all the right notes, providing a rich and salty contrast to the sweet cabbage and sauce. Dishes like this are what make me continue to return to Hereford Road: sheer simplicity but executed with such assuredness that you just enjoy without any pretentious narrative at the table.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-70a_nEmgz9U/UsCOG5xweSI/AAAAAAAABc4/UKABSwM5wDE/s1600/DSC01770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-70a_nEmgz9U/UsCOG5xweSI/AAAAAAAABc4/UKABSwM5wDE/s200/DSC01770.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The dessert menu again read like a dream (as any list of English puddings should), but I will focus on two in particular. The rice pudding, yet again, was perfect: a spoonful of berry jam to balance some acidity and colour within a bowl of cuddling, sweet rice (right). If they keep serving puddings like this, I'll keep raving about them.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AGgfAZJ4ih8/UsCOQ9XrMnI/AAAAAAAABdI/ZFbfR79O9cE/s1600/DSC01771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AGgfAZJ4ih8/UsCOQ9XrMnI/AAAAAAAABdI/ZFbfR79O9cE/s200/DSC01771.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The sticky date pudding was also a major hit (left). What supermarkets are contriving to call sticky toffee still retains a certain original charm here and it's still just about the best out there. Marbled with a generous portion of pouring cream, this hot cake with rich, sweet caramel sauce is one worth travelling west for.<br />
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A tradition it has become, and one that (most likely 15 months from now) I will be writing about from 2013 as well. A big meal with friends is something you just can't beat. When the food is this good, it just makes people happy. Hereford Road remains somewhere I keep going to because it always manages to hit the mark in such an understated, humble way. If anyone asks me where to find classic English cooking at a reasonable price, this is where I suggest they go.<br />
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<a href="http://www.herefordroad.org/">Hereford Road</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6753048790119874682.post-59647023741224216782013-12-30T09:00:00.000+00:002013-12-30T09:00:15.683+00:00A Vision Becomes Reality: Hedone - Chiswick, Friday November 30th & Wednesday December 19th, 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I love stumbling upon somewhere I had no idea about. Especially when it's on a well-trodden path. There is a building near where I work which has changed hands and guises many times since 2006. At various times a bar, a restaurant, a lounge and a café, nothing really stuck. Until summer 2011. A big refurbishment started, leaving the wide-fronted structure wood-panelled and looking as if something mysterious was occurring within.</div>
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What was actually happening took a little time to fully realise. And, thankfully for me, a restaurant was happening. But not some high street, wipe-clean menu, chain restaurant. A <i>restaurant </i>restaurant. A restaurant with some grand ideas and noble, ambitious pretensions. I started to notice exciting menus being sporadically displayed outside throughout the week. Menus which made one stop and re-read. Dishes such as broken duck egg with apricot and girolle mushrooms did not belong on the kinds of menu I had seen here before.</div>
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Hedone is a restaurant run by a former blogger, the Swedish Mikael Jonsson. Technically this guy is my hero even though said information is all that's needed to qualify him as such. Anyone who can take a seemingly cursed building, put a proper restaurant inside and then start generating gushing reviews - from a blogging background - is worth time and attention.</div>
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When the reviews started, they were all positive. So much so that I was certain a meal here was never going to live up to the billing. The end of 2011 came and went and I hadn't mustered up the courage or cash to walk less than two minutes from my place of work to try it. That said, their opening hours for the first six months were a mish-mash of weekend lunches and random evenings, by the look of it. I later found out that Jonsson was trying to work out the best ways to proffer and price the menu before going at it full scale. I found this refreshingly honest: if you think it's not right, tell me and I will work on it.</div>
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Towards the end of 2012, they had clearly found their feet well enough. A Michelin Star arrived in the 2013 guide and they had started opening for lunch on certain weekdays. This was big news in every way. As such, two trips close together towards the end of the year - one planned, one most certainly not - were put together with similar results.</div>
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As all good toppy restaurants outside the middle of town (and in my opinion most of them in town) should have, Hedone offers a very reasonable express lunch menu. No choices but at £25 for three courses, this is value which demands a closer inspection. Three of us went for that on the first visit (the wife went for a la carte) and the wife and I both had the express menu on our second visit. If you're wondering, the reason the second visit was unplanned was the wife oversleeping by the small matter of a few hours. Michelin-Starred lunch isn't a bad way of making up for it though...</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uRsfBBprnm0/Up589a37IBI/AAAAAAAABas/qDZmavk-DZM/s1600/DSC01754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uRsfBBprnm0/Up589a37IBI/AAAAAAAABas/qDZmavk-DZM/s200/DSC01754.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0cSpRfXqlQ/Up580RgZwpI/AAAAAAAABaY/Nngoi7gbBf0/s1600/DSC01751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0cSpRfXqlQ/Up580RgZwpI/AAAAAAAABaY/Nngoi7gbBf0/s200/DSC01751.JPG" width="200" /></a>Instead of a blow-by-blow account of each visit, I'm going to compare dishes from each visit. I'll start with one ultra-consistency in terms of flavour, then secondarily, the actual dish. Their desserts featured apple on each visit. And boy were these desserts to fawn over. On the first visit, the wife's <i>mille-feuille</i> of apple in absolutely perfect flaky pastry with ice cream was a vision and execution of expert comfort and fanciness in a delicious pudding (above left). That is nearly impossible to top, but the standard dessert on the express lunch menu on each occasion was a rather exceptional salted caramel parfait with apple purée (above right). The cold cream was light, sweet-salty perfection with the apple adding a pleasant acidic note of textural variation.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p43TuDr42Kg/Up5_f0AlF7I/AAAAAAAABa4/dNWR9X8NEqs/s1600/DSC01774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p43TuDr42Kg/Up5_f0AlF7I/AAAAAAAABa4/dNWR9X8NEqs/s200/DSC01774.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7XI1M60nIE0/Up58cpWBS3I/AAAAAAAABaE/b4fOo2ixie0/s1600/DSC01734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7XI1M60nIE0/Up58cpWBS3I/AAAAAAAABaE/b4fOo2ixie0/s200/DSC01734.JPG" width="200" /></a>Soup was the starter on the express menu on each occasion. The pumpkin soup on our first visit was intense, rich and a proper autumnal bowl of comfort (left). With a similar look and feel, the cauliflower soup of December's menu was a far creamier, more flavoursome proposition (above right). I probably preferred it overall since the soup's thickness and natural sweetness of the vegetable was more pronounced. They were both quite lovely and humble bowls to start a brisk lunch.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRciOc3IwGI/Up58cWsCdtI/AAAAAAAABaA/sE30tZFdCMY/s1600/DSC01747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRciOc3IwGI/Up58cWsCdtI/AAAAAAAABaA/sE30tZFdCMY/s200/DSC01747.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNXzSCbgOL4/Up58b9_Rd6I/AAAAAAAABZ8/X8_PIZ928hY/s1600/DSC01735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNXzSCbgOL4/Up58b9_Rd6I/AAAAAAAABZ8/X8_PIZ928hY/s200/DSC01735.JPG" width="200" /></a>The wife's two dishes (starter and main) from the a la carte in November were interesting and creative. Her starter of a fried duck egg with pea foam, seaweed and mushrooms was a deep and varied mixture of strong tastes and soft textures (left). It was a starter that read as a fairly striking and original combination, but it made a lot of sense when put in front of you. Now that's how to serve modern upmarket food. Her main course of lamb noisettes with aubergine was a more traditional idea but carried out in a no-nonsense way (above right). The meat was beautifully pink with a juicy fat crust. Personally I would have preferred the fat a little more rendered but the taste was a smooth and salty blend of perfection. The aubergine on the side was grilled, puréed and dressed to combine well with the meat.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E16cxp-hMMo/Up5_gkmiHUI/AAAAAAAABa8/FXEax55ypsY/s1600/DSC01776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E16cxp-hMMo/Up5_gkmiHUI/AAAAAAAABa8/FXEax55ypsY/s200/DSC01776.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CWeKDuAsyZ0/Up582Ls61UI/AAAAAAAABak/vEXGtRUbmog/s1600/DSC01749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CWeKDuAsyZ0/Up582Ls61UI/AAAAAAAABak/vEXGtRUbmog/s200/DSC01749.JPG" width="200" /></a>The main courses on each express menu were comparable in that they were made up of a meat, a sauce and a side. The pork with broccoli and quince & apple sauce was a well-conceived plate which was a perfect size for a brief lunch (left). My problem was with the meat which was a trifle dry. The duck with root vegetables the following month was a less interesting plate since there was no colour variation and only one cut of meat (above right). The confit leg was too salty in the event, which dominated the dish too much.<br />
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The issue I had with the express lunch on both visits was with the main course, but for value and quality in general, there is very little to complain about on a lunch menu like this. The extras - bread & butter and a soft toffee at the end - were also very enjoyable. The restaurant is a sleek, neutrally welcoming room framed in dark brown wood and the best thing about this whole venture: an open kitchen.<br />
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Now I find open kitchens a little tacky and distracting. In most restaurants they aren't adding anything outside of an unnecessary noise level and a chrome sheen to the dining area. In this case, the kitchen (and I believe it is a glorified finishing area) lends a serene variation to the room. There is something about watching your dishes being finished in a Michelin-Starred kitchen which makes everything that bit more tantalising. There's something about Hedone which makes the hairs on the back of the neck stand up. That's what happens when a blogger-turned-restaurateur gets it right.<br />
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<a href="http://hedonerestaurant.com/">Hedone</a>Jonniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17382246809321177061noreply@blogger.com0